Everyone who owns an old house needs to know how to restore old windows. There are lots of them and they usually need a lot of work, but with the tutorials, tools, and supplies on this page, you can learn how to restore old windows like a pro, from a pro.
Your home’s old wood windows are some of the most valuable, yet misunderstood elements of a historic house. Most people find them painted shut with sash cords cut, and with missing bits and pieces of hardware. That’s the time they usually opt to start over with replacement windows.
But replacing historic windows is a big mistake and I don’t want you fall into it!
Reasons people choose to replace old windows:
- Inoperable windows
- Leaky and energy-inefficient windows
- Lead paint concerns
- Aggressive marketing from window companies
All these problems can be easily solved and you can make your historic windows just as efficient as a new window, but much longer lasting!
The Facts About Historic Windows
1. Repairable – Historic wood windows are designed to be easy to repair. Unlike replacement windows where the whole window unit must often be replaced or factory repaired if an issue arises, historic windows can be repaired piecemeal. Each individual piece can be repaired, restored, or replaced quite simply by the homeowner or local tradesman.
2. Upgradable – Your old windows may be drafty but they can very easily be weatherstripped and have storm windows (interior or exterior) added to dramatically increase their efficiency beyond even what new replacement windows can offer.
3. Simple to Maintain – Keep your old windows painted. That’s it! With some paint every decade or so, you can keep them protected and safe for decades longer than a replacement window will last.
4. Resilient – Being made from old-growth lumber, these windows (when properly maintained) can last for several centuries unlike replacement windows today which are obsolete within just a few years.
Now that you know the facts, you’ll want to know the how and what of repairing these old windows. So below I have included links to posts that detail exactly how to restore and care for these windows. I’ve also included links to where you can find the proper tools and products to use in the restoration process.
Old Windows Made Easy
First things first: if you want a comprehensive guide for the restoration of your wood windows you need to get a copy of my book Old Windows Made Easy. This book is the absolute simplest way to restore your wood windows. In this guide, I walk you through the entire restoration process step-by-step so as to leave no stone unturned.
This book will save you hours and hours of working time and thousands of dollars in restoration costs. You can learn more about the book here or order your copy now!
Not ready for the book? Then check out the information below for free and you’ll learn how to restore old windows at the pace you want.
The Techniques
- How To: Reglaze Old Windows
- Which Glazing Putty is Right For You?
- How to: Glaze Wood Windows
- How To: Open Stuck Windows in 4 Easy Steps
- How To: Remove Window Sash
- How To: Restring Old Windows
- How To: Remove Paint From Old Hardware
- How To: Replace Broken Window Glass
- How To: Weatherstrip Wood Windows
- A Window Glazing Tip & Trick
- How To: Work With Spiral Balances
Old Window Tools & Supplies
My favorite putty for wood sash. Fast skinning and ready for paint within 1 week. This linseed oil based glazing putty is for in shop glazing only.
A slow curing (2-3 weeks) glazing putty ideal for on-site repairs and steel or wood sash. Immense flexibility and long life is the name of the game for this linseed oil-based glazing putty.
My favorite and still undefeated champion of epoxies in my honest opinion. This easy to use wood epoxy is great for making almost any kind of repair to wood windows. From minor filling of rot, to complete reconstruction of profiles, this combination of epoxy filler and consolidant does it all with style.
Sampson #8 Spot Cord is the ideal sash rope for wood windows. Able to support up to 150 lbs it will support any size window, and that’s why it has been the industry standard for over 100 years.
An easy to use tool great for cutting sashes free from years of built up paint and caulk to get them working again. Its serrated edges provide a great cutting edge that helps keep other surfaces free of damage.
With 2 sides this glazier’s tool can be useful for those learning to glaze. I use only the beveled edge after years, which I find has the perfect bevel for glazing my windows.
For paint stripping infrared heat is a great way to get the paint off without damaging the surface beneath. Lose decades of old paint easily in minutes with this tool and keep yourself safe from lead paint by eliminating dust.
Faster and smaller than the Original Speedheater, this new addition to the line up is great for the small parts on windows like muntins. Softens paint in only 2-3 seconds and overall makes your life easier.
Simple to use and provides great hold for glass in wood sash. This style works great with the Fletcher glazing point setting tool below. For simple hand setting of points, this is the best choice.
Point driving guns can be expensive, but with this easy hand tool, you can set multiple styles of glazing points with one affordable tool. Sure, it might take a little longer than a gun, but it gets the job done all the same.
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I love old houses, working with my hands, and teaching others the excitment of doing it yourself! Everything is teachable if you only give it the chance.
Can I turn my mid century windows into tilt ins? There must be a way. Any ideas?
Probably a way but it may not be easy or feasible.
I do not personally know much about this company but they claim that they can make them tilt outs. I believe they will do anything from restore to pretty much do a Marvin tilt pac but using your old wood sash and replace the weight/pulley with vinyl side liners.
http://www.bi-glass.com/
Thanks Scott. Do you think the Abatron would be able to take the place of an entire bottom exterior corner of window, or would the only way to fix that properly be to splice in wood. I can’t find anyone in my area willing to take that on a repair. Do you know of anyone in the SF bay area that does that sort of work, as opposed to rebuilding entire new window? Seems new my only option unless you can suggest someone. Thanks! Kim
Hi Scott,
Thanks for your speedy reply, and doing your part to help people like me! I found a local guy who wants to replace the dry rot with “Bondo” whatever that is. Another guy said as long as he uses “Smith’s 2 part epoxy” it may work. Do you think that could take the place of salvaged wood? Thanks again, Kim
Kim, Bondo on wood is never a good idea because it is not meant for that application (even a lot of carpenters use it). It will fail within just a few years. A 2 part epoxy meant for use on wood is a better plan. We use a product called Abatron WoodEpox but there are other brands like Smith’s that work just as well.
Everyone I’ve talked to in my area who works on old wood windows is telling me that the dry rotted bottom rail of my multi-light sash window can’t be replaced, or that replacing is a bad idea because the new and old wood aren’t compatible. They all say it would be cheaper to rebuild a new window than try to fix the old one. What are your thoughts? I’ll try to send a photo.
Sometimes it is cheaper to build a replacement sash, but if preserving the window is your goal then I would repair it. Unless the sash has more than 40-50% of the wood that is beyond repair I usually try to save it. If you’re worried about new wood and old wood not blending then you can replace the damaged parts with salvaged wood.
hello my name is Troy Schmidt
back in the fifties they need what they called a putty remover. it basically heated up the harden party on old windows and it becomes very pliable and removable.
Anyways I’m here in San Diego and I’m trying to locate such an antique… Was wondering if you have any recommendations
Thank you for your time
TLC handyman service, Troy Schmidt
Troy, I haven’t seen one of these. We put sashes in a steam box in my shop to soften the putty. It works great. On site you can use a heat gun but be careful of temps above 900 F if there is lead paint.
Heat guns blow heat across the glass and create varying temperatures which often breaks glass. Plus high heat guns, which are the most common kind, operate at 1000 degrees F. and make toxic lead fumes from the old, lead paint on the window wood.A new technology of heating toot, the Speedheater Infrared (IR) Paint Remover is low, 400-600 degree F. which is evenly- distributed heat from two, long, IR 11″ bulbs. The even heat across the length of the IR bulbs greatly prevents glass from having different temperatures on it and thus reduces the risk of breaking the glass. The IR heat softens the putty in about 60 seconds and allows it to be scraped off easily.
Oh hey, that’s pretty neat to know how old wood windows can be repaired. How long would it take to do a window repair for those type of windows? This is something that I would be doing for a grandmother of mine who has several old windows to repair.
Correy, for a 1 over 1 window I would expect it to take 2 weekends for you first window. And then much faster as you get more comfortable it takes my team about 15 hrs per window to restore 2 sashes and the jamb and mechanics.
Love your website and the useful information. I have a question I would like to get your thoughts. I have a couple of old windows in my garage that I want to close off for security and privacy reasons. I do not want to remove the frame, so I was thinking of rep,ace the glass storm windows with 3/4″ plywood. What would be the best way to install the plywood?
Ray cut the plywood to fit in the storm windows channels and screw it in from the outside using a security bit or at the least a combination of square drive and star drive screws to make it more difficult for any criminals.
Scott, thanks, I was wondering about caulking and should I put a drip edge on the top. The current storm windows are 3/4″ wood and fit completely within the window frame.
If it fits within the window frame it likely won’t need caulk, but watch and see to determine if your case is different.
Fact number two is important to remember. My mother in law lives in a very old home and she is scared of replacing the windows because she thinks they cannot be upgraded. There are so many great glass repair companies around today that it would be easy for any of them to upgrade your old windows.
We are trying to repair sash cords in our home built in 1927. Windows are 6 over 1, weighted & pullies upper and lower. We popped The trim off and can access The weights through trap door.The problem we are running into is the Windows have interlocking metal channels that they ride in. We can’t figure out how to get the knotted end into window without destroying metal channel. Frustrating! Suggestions?
Kathy, the weatherstripping will have just a few nails holding it in place. Using a nail punch, punch the nail heads thru the metal which will free up the metal to be removed with the sash. Then when everything is reassembled you can add back a few small nails to hold it in place again.
Hello Scott
We just purchased a 1736 house completely restored with all original lead glass windows, original shutters and siding.
Where can we find an experienced historical contractor to help us restore the Windows? They are painted shut.
Thank you.
I have a 1925 home in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I’m looking for someone who can repair/restore several windows on my home. Can you provide any suggestions?
Hi Scott,
We just purchased an 1890 Victorian and would like to keep the original windows. Do you know a window specialist in West Chester, PA – 19380 zip code?
The Los angeles office of historic resources sent me a list I’ll send you. It’s mostly large contractors who work on large masonry buildings and mansions. Those of us with little bungalows need to select from a better curated set of vendors.
It turns out the studios (paramount and Fox) are a good resource for period wood work like cornices, moldings and casings. They have full featured workshops and exhaustive lists of categorized millwork profiles. I have talked to people who tell me they are about half the price of a normal millworks in this area, which I’m also told exist in Los Angeles but which I cannot find. I’ll update here as I find out. Or perhaps there should be another topic opened up for fabricating windows from scratch since so many people need to do that, and all this talk about how important it is to keep your windows at all costs is just so discouraging to those of us who have already lost our windows.
Tags: Los angeles, Southern California, historic window builders.
There are a lot of windows that need replacing in Los Angeles. The aluminum sliders that were installed in the 1970s and 80s have not worked for most of their lives. The newer double pane replacements from the 90s and 2000s are already seizing up due to settling. The last place I lived (a 1913 bungalow) had them and most of the widows were already near impossible to open, as was the Home Depot front door. The landlord himself told me it was settling.
If you are are a homeowner who wants to restore a typical Los Angeles bungalow that has already lost its windows and been stuccoed over, don’t lose hope. The best path is still restoration. Don’t give up. Focus on the facade first. Windows may not be the cheapest place to start, but we are starting to with them because they have the largest impact on the interior and exterior appearance.
A source in the City of Los Angeles Office of Historic Resources told me realtors call and ask him which properties already have mills act contracts because that is used as a selling point (due to the tax advantage) Two realtors already confirmed that every dollar spent on careful, well-placed historic restoration can easily net five times that in the market.
Scott, we have a 1906 craftsman in Los Angeles, CA that needs lots of work. We need to have windows made. Do you know of anyone in our area?
I don’t know of anyone in that area, but I’m currently searching for quality craftsman in S. California so let me know if you find someone you like.
Hi Scott,
I’m totally stuck. My double hung are setup on a shared weight system, one concrete slab with a pully on top on either side of the frame. I can’t seem to find any littiture on the subject and can’t move forward on my 27 window project. Can you offer any direction?
Thank you,
Lucas
Lucas, there are some very unique pulley systems out there. If you can send me a picture and I will see if I can give you any guidance.
We are a company that restores and repairs historic windows in the Los Angeles and Los Alamitos area. I’ll refer you to Scott, he’s awesome! 562.493.1590 or scott@windornr.com
Our goal is always to preserve the historical integrity of the home.
I have a 1910 Shaker style house in Minneapolis, MN. The windows are in fantastic shape. The all function smoothly, both top and bottom, and the interior side is not painted. However, the exterior paint is in horrible shape (blistering) and is lead paint. What are your opinions on paint removal/abatement vs painting over? Do you know of any restoration contractors in the area? Everyone I’ve talked to wants to replace them entirely (no!) or refuses to bid a removal/repair. If I paint, I’m nervous that the layers of the encapsulant and paint will limit the movement of the windows. Also, simply repainting doesn’t remove the potential for generating lead dust when the windows slide up and down. Any input would be appreciated. I love my windows and want to do the right repair.
Try Borden Windows or Restoration Window Systems both of which are in St. Paul.
You might also try:
http://www.rogerluebeck.com/
Years ago I ran across Roger’s website and he was kind enough to give me some advice, as he specializes in doing old house repaints, stripping down to the bare wood, and guarantees his work for 20 years. In doing my Queen Anne with areas impossible to reach and old cedar shingle, I wanted my paint job to last as long as possible.
I would love to send him some business. If you contact him, tell him “some guy in philly you gave advice to by email told me about you”.
You might also try:
http://www.rogerluebeck.com/
Years ago I ran across Roger’s website and he was kind enough to give me some advice, as he specializes in doing old house repaints, stripping down to the bare wood, and guarantees his work for 20 years. In doing my Queen Anne with areas impossible to reach and old cedar shingle, I wanted my paint job to last as long as possible.
I would love to send him some business. If you contact him, tell him “some guy in philly you gave advice to by email told me about you”.
Hi There – I’m restoring a wood window, I’ve removed the rot from the corner, replaced with wood and will now cut a new mortise and tenon into the repaired portion.
My first instinct is to use a really good waterproof glue to glue it all back together, but then I remembered that it seemed to be only nailed thru the joinery… Should I glue it or Pin it? If glue, do I go to a hide glue or a modern waterproof glue?
Mark, to repair a joint that is severely deteriorated it usually ends up that I put it together with epoxy and/or a dutchman that result in that joint not being able to be taken apart again in the future. It’s easier that way from a production stand point but if you have the time and desire to mill new parts precisely enough that the joinery can function again my hat’s off to you. If you do glue I would use a waterproof glue like Titebond III.
Scott, you provide great advice and resources to support folks keeping not trashing their old windows. Keep it up.
We have a 1920s dutch colonial in Southeast Michigan and are in desperate need of window repair. Most of them do not stay up, many do not open, and all of them have sills that are rotten to some degree. All of our 28 windows have aluminum exterior storms/screens installed many years ago. We panic at the thought of undertaking this massive project on our own. Are there people out there–specifically in SE Michigan–who do this kind of work?
Sorry for the late response Robin! Try Turner Restoration in Detroit. (313) 574-9073 or turnerrestoration@sbcglobal.net. Tell them I sent you!
Are you aware of any companies that do this work in mid-Michigan? Or should I contact the same Detroit company?
Have 1907 house in Des Moines Iowa and can’t find someone to rebuild. Do you have any names for Iowa?
Jan, The only name I know in Iowa is Iowa City Window & Door (319) 351-3513. If they can’t help you let me know and my company can ship you rebuilt window sashes if that’s what you need.
Not too familiar with those, but likely the culprit is either a detached or broken spring tensioner on the top sash. You may be able to find replacement parts at Strybuc.