Which Glazing Putty is Right For You?

By Scott Sidler • September 7, 2015

There are a lot of options when it comes to finding the right window glazing putty for you. A lot depends on the type of window and where you will be doing your gazing (outside or in a shop).

So, I’ve put together this list of my six favorite window putties to help you in your search. All of these putties will help you get the job done right, it just depends on your personal preferences and situation as to which will be the best putty for your project.

I’ve also included links for each glazing putty, so you can purchase them if you’re interested. The Sarco putties are sold right here on The Craftsman and other putties are affiliate links, which means I get a small commission at no extra cost to you if you decide to buy the putty, but don’t buy unless you think it is the right one for you!



1. Sarco Type-MSarco Multi-Glaze Gallon

This is the most common glazing putty that professional window restorers use and it’s what my shop uses about 90% of the time. It is relatively easy to use, not too oily, or too dry and tools to a nice smooth finish. The putty is also fast to skin over, which means it is ready for paint (in most conditions) in as quick as 3-4 days. It is only recommended for glazing in a shop and is only for wood sash (not for steel windows). Despite this, I have had decent success using it sparingly outside as long as I get it painted in the 3-5 day range after application. All in all, this is my favorite putty!

Scott’s Rating (1-10): 9


Sarco Dual Glaze Gallon2. Sarco Dual Glaze

Sarco has been making putty for a long time and they have a lot of different varieties of which Dual Glaze is one of the most versatile. This is the first putty I learned to use because it can be used almost anywhere! It is designed for wood OR steel windows and can be applied outside or in a shop. This makes it a good choice for spot glazing touch ups outside. Dual Glaze is almost identical to work with as Type-M, except that it’s a bit oilier which makes it a little messier to work with, especially on hot days. The downside is that it takes a long time to cure (2-3 weeks). But that slow curing makes for a putty that stays flexible much longer than most of its competitors.

Scott’s Rating (1-10): 8

dap 333. DAP 33

Good ole’ DAP 33 is available at almost every hardware store, which is one of the reasons I think so many people use it. I used it sparingly at the start of my business since it was easy to find. I found it a little bit chalkier than Type-M, but just as easy to work with. The curing time until it was skinned over and ready for paint was closer to Dual Glaze in the 2 week range, though slower in cold temperatures, which was one of the reasons I quit using it. It’s neither here nor there for my tastes.

Scott’s Rating (1-10): 5


aqua glaze4. Aqua Glaze

Unlike the other oil-based putties, so far, Aqua Glaze is an acrylic glazing putty. I keep a can of this around the shop for special circumstances. The thing that makes Aqua Glaze special is its super fast curing time. It can be ready for paint in as quick as 1 hour! This can be a big help if you are in a time crunch. Of all the putties here, it is probably the most temperamental to work with. It has to be mixed thoroughly before being used, otherwise it can be pretty sticky. It may not be my main putty, but it is invaluable for those special cases.

Scott’s Rating (1-10): 8


glazol5. Glazol

I tried a gallon of this at a friend’s urging and found that it works rather well. It has been around long enough and has been tested enough that I feel comfortable putting it on my windows too. Glazol seemed to me to be somewhere in the middle of Type-M and DAP 33. It was ready for paint in about 4 days which was great, but it was a little chalkier than I was used to with Type-M.

Scott’s Rating (1-10): 6.5


Allback linseed oil putty6. Allback Linseed Oil Putty

Possibly the most traditional of all these putties is the Allback. If you want to be true to the old school ways, this is glazing putty in its purest form. It’s made mainly with whiting and a purified linseed oil that has had the proteins removed (this helps fight mildew). Allback putty is pure as the driven snow. The biggest advantage of this putty is that it can be painted immediately if you use a linseed oil paint, which can be a major time saver. The down side is that it is expensive.

Scott’s Rating (1-10): 7


For more on glazing and restoring historic windows, visit my resource page How To: Repair Old Wood Windows


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78 thoughts on “Which Glazing Putty is Right For You?”

  1. Scott,
    I hope all is going well. I am re-glazing & restoring old wood double hung windows. I have typically been using DAP as I cannot seem to find SARCO locally & like to get that sort of thing in person so I can see that it looks good & is not dried out or something. The DAP has been performing reasonably well enough for the past several years. I strip down the windows completely to bare wood inside & out of the weather, apply Toxic Epoxy as needed, Prime with Oil Base, Paint with Acrylic, Re-Glaze, Allow for about a two week cure, then apply oil base primer over the glazed area, then perform a final Acrylic painting before complete drying & re-installing. However, on a recent project I observed the putty bubbling & chalking badly on the windows on one side of the home, out of the Blue along with heavy mildew growth. I looked at it & removed the chalked Putty & mildew. The remains appear solid & not molded or anything. Either the whole thing will have to be redone or I will need to find a putty that will work as a spot treatment before re-painting. What are your recommendations? Do you recommend going ahead & getting some SARCO or otherwise & using it to spot glaze effectively rather than having to completely re-work again? The weather here has been extremely hot & humid, more so it seems than usual, but always high with little air movement at times. The farmers in the fields have been using all sorts of unknown chemicals, etc. The Paint is Sherwin Williams Oil Base Primer & Exterior Duration in White. The paint seems to be attracting an unusual amount of dirt as well for such a new job. What do you think could have caused this to happen on just these few windows using the same technique as always?

    Thank you,


  2. Hi Scott,
    A couple weeks ago, I scraped some older exterior wood windows down to bare wood, planning to reglaze and paint. Since then, we’ve had record-breaking rainfall and nonstop high humidity (average of 91%). The windows do get direct rain, and I’m concerned about their ongoing exposure to the elements. Do you have any recommendations on the type of glaze to use under these conditions, how long I need to wait after rain to glaze, how long to wait after glazing to paint, considering the conditions? I know you can’t get be exact, but any guidelines would help!

  3. Hi, so I have some old steal casement windows that I am restoring that I bought on Craigslist, they are Hopes, out of an old farm house. They have been a lot of work, I took out all the old glass and putty, (this was not easy!), stripped them, dealt with the rust, red oxide painted them and then finished them with black enamel paint. But now I’ve realized that it might have been a bad idea to totally paint them and am worried that the glazing putty may not be designed to stick to the paint. Could you advise me if it is ok to putty over the paint? Thanks!!

  4. Hi!

    This is my first window restoration, and I’m just about to the glazing step. Not knowing there were better products out there, I purchased DAP 33. Can the window be outside and exposed to the elements while curing? We are in northeastern Colorado and the window would be in full shade most of the day.

  5. Just took down several sash I had puttied with DAP 33 last October, ten months ago, and am astounded to find that the putty hasn’t hardened yet. Oh well, that means it comes off easily with a knife. I suspect they are putting more kerosene and less linseed oil in it nowadays; I don’t remember it taking years to set.
    Had some fun coloring DAP with an artist pigment.. 100g of Red Iron Oxide (B) will color one gallon (and probably more) of DAP 33. Now, do I have to paint it? They say it’s necessary to cover the seam between the glass and the putty. But I’ve seen old sash with unpainted putty in fine shape.

  6. Are you sure about the m type vs dual glaze? I have found the opposite on set up time after dozens of uses on both. The m type takes 2 weeks in the shop and the dual glaze takes 3-5 days after on site repairs. I agree otherwise on your top two choices. Thanks for compiling a great list!

  7. Fantastic content. Therefore, I will be reglazing several large windows by using an old developing that must be worn out place. Can easily type “M” be used as it’s not formally a shop? Thank you in advance.

  8. Hi! I am new to window glazing. I have four old wooden windows with diamond grid pattern. Does anyone make a pre-formed strip of glaze that I can lay down instead of glazing compound? It seems like this would be so much faster and easier, and I have a lot of diamond edges to fix. Trying not to replace windows wii new modern ones because I really like the look of these originals. Thanks!

    1. Oh my….please never replace old windows, they’re irreplaceable. I’d view several YouTube videos on how to glaze historic windows –then get the right tool, and practice. It’s not hard, just requires care and patience to learn. Good luck to you!

  9. Hi Scott-
    Thanks for sharing your expertise! I have a long case grandfather clock, and the putty that holds the beveled glass is old and crumbling. I’d like to replace the putty before the glass falls out. Is there a special type of putty or glaze I should consider?

  10. Hi Scott,

    I am looking to reglaze some old steel casement windows in place with the Sarco Dual product during the Summer in Queens, NY (temps should be above 50 degrees ). Do I need to cover them during the 2 week skinning period to protect them from UV (and any possible rain)?

  11. Hi,
    I have andersen casement windows with lead diamond glass panels (1960s era)…In need re-glazing…first time in all those years. What glazing putty would you use to seal the lead to the wood casement?

  12. Hi Scott,

    We have some old steel windows that we will be replacing the putty on. We’re planning on removing all existing putty and glass, getting the frames sand blasted and powder coated a black color, then reglazing. I noticed some comments above about tinting putty black. Ideally we’d like to try this and not have to paint (since windows will be powdercoated anyways). Does the putty HAVE to be painted for durability or will it hold up on it’s own unfinished with an integral tint? Windows aren’t too exposed but I imagine parts of the day in winter will see direct sunlight.

  13. We are repairing an classic wood frame conservatory type greenhouse in California which we originally used DAP 33 on 15 years ago and it has not held up that well. Hoping to get your best recommendation for this application. thanks- Marc

  14. Hello! This is an incredibly useful list thank you for making it! I have an application I’d like to use glazing putty for, and am not sure if it is a wise solution and if so which type would be best. I have been tasked with filling the exterior seam between a large aluminum framed glass store front and the brick fascia around it. It looks like some sort of glazing putty was the original gap filler used- in maybe the early 80s. The gap is 3/4″ wide in some places and the putty remaining was up to around 1″ deep. There was no backer of any sort. I’ve tucked closed cell foam rod into the gap, and modern wisdom would have me fill the seam with polyeurethane or silicone caulking. This stuff is just so hard to work with and get to look neat. Putty seems like a great solution and was in place for decades. It would be best if it was a product I did not need to paint- the original material used was whitish grey, and unpainted. Do you have any suggestions for this application?

  15. Hi, I’m looking to build my own wood countertop and want to use some sort of lacquer or glaze to seal that is food safe. Am I in the right realm here to ask what are my options or wasting my time?

  16. HI, I’ve just fitted a mirror in a bathroom and want to seal the edges with a putty. Ideally I would like to add some glitter to the putty to give it a sparkle

    Any suggestions of what would be best suited?

    Many thanks in advance…

    1. Brian,
      You would be better off using the glitter mixed with an alkali refined linseed oil, that you get in an art supply store to paint on the surface of the putty. The oil is transparent the putty is not. The oil will take a few days to dry onto the surface of the putty. (Oil is a binder) You want to use a alkali refined to keep the oil from yellowing like boiled linseed. (You don’t need a lot… 6oz jar or less).

      You can also use other reflective pigments from The Pearl Paint Co. in NYC to float in oil binder.

  17. I have a unique situation. I made s really cool area carpet of a mat with wine corks glued into a basket weave design. The whole thing looks great, bit I need a flexible waterproof filler for between the corks. A friend suggested glazing compound. Do you think this would work and if so which compound do you recommend?

    1. Glazing putty maybe to ridged once it dries. I would use a pourable silicon rubber. Build a little dam around your mat with clay to contain the liquid silicon first, then pour in the silicon. You can pour it in layers if the depth is greater than 1/4 inch. It will have a strong ammonia smell until it dries, so do it somewhere with plenty of fresh air.

  18. Hi, Scott,
    I have 150 years old house with double pocket door contains complete wheel-cut glass pans, and I am replacing some of broken glass, and now ready to fit. The door made of wood, what is best product to use, what is best tool to use?

  19. Scott — extremely helpful information,

    I know this is not 100% the right way to do it, but if I were fixing up some older windows and didn’t get 100% of the old putty out would it be ok to put the dual glaze over existing putty?

    Also, is the multi-glaze designed for interior use only?


    1. Jon, you can put the new putty on the remaining existing putty without a problem. MultiGlaze is design for exterior use but it cures so quickly in UV light that it needs to be left indoors to cure (usually 3-5 days) and painted before being exposed. All putties should be painted before their service life begins.

  20. Help!
    After removing all the old glazing, and stripping the old paint, I primed the wood muntins with boiled linseed oil, then I reglazed my exterior wood windows with Sarco dual glaze. I purchased your book, ‘Windows Made Easy’, but need to know if The reglazed muntins need an oil based primer (Kilz) before applying 2 coats of paint. I plan to paint white.
    Do you suggest an oil enamel or acrylic?

    1. No primer needed on Sarco putties. Oil enamel or acrylic are both good choices. If you use oil then add mildewcide to prevent mildew growing on the paint which is common for oil based paints.

    2. Thank you! I love your book, and your journey which led you into your restoration business. Great blog!
      In your exterior painting of wood windows, which brand do you use? You mentioned Sherwin Williams porch and deck paint…

        1. I’ve done quite a bit of research on paint for a large exterior project recently, BEHR Premium Plus Ultra has the best performance ratings over all.

  21. We have old steel casement-type windows on a house built around 1930. What type of glazing compound should we use on these windows? I’m just working on one window now (August) and am worried about getting it finished before it gets old. So far I’ve been scraping paint and rust on the inside, and there’s piles of old paint on all hardware and places I think it should not be. But then I am not knowledgeable.

    BUt I would like to know what kind of putty to use.

  22. I will be reglazing several very large windows on an old building that must be done in place. Can type M be used since its not technically a shop?
    Secondly, some glazing putty products tend to dry out and become hard once the can is opened, if this is true for type M as well, what’s the best way to preserve its working life?

    1. Dual glaze would be a better fit for your project I think. Keeping the putty covered with wax paper when not in use helps keep it from drying out. All putties will dry up if left exposed.

      I have 2 x 5lb cans of the stuff,i bought them 20 years ago,I did have to use lemon furniture oil and slowly knead & stir the stufft lemon oil works well,forms a bit of skin in a week, it will last 40-50 years,IF you do a couple other things to the glass window & sash joint,whether steel or wood.. the wood sash ought to be finely sanded, rounding both edges with a block ( 2 x 4,covered with sandpaper), wipe some linseed oil onto the rabbet,it grabs and holds putty without peeling or falling off. bed the glass with your thumb,,making about an eighth of an inch
      pad for the seated pumice cleaned glass pane,,after bedding the glass in,use glazing points,the triangle ones are optimum,tapped in with a cold chisel side,,the sash ought to be scraped clean before putty or oil are applied.
      the putty knife, ought to be used only for puttying,no scraping or abrading on a metal surface.2 sizes,one inch,( for ss glass,) 2 inch ( for one /4 x thickness or tempered glass . wood windows treated like this will take kiddies slamming them for hundreds of times. household windows treated like this,will make rooms quieter,insulate against wind rain,noise. they usually outlast the aluminum glass & vinyl windows,,you have to spend some time doing this,it does pay off,

    3. I just completed the inside of 28 large storefront windows. Type M glazing putty is a great product, easy to work with. However, be prepared to wait several weeks before painting to allow it to fully cure.
      Be sure to clean the linseed oil off the glass immediately after glazing. Use a soft paint brush and “magic dust” aka plaster of Paris powder

  23. I’m quickly becoming a fan of you, Scott! Problem: my husband has been hired to paint Windows maybe 60 or more years old. Someone else dipped them (unfortunately) to strip we don’t know when, but more than two weeks ago, then the dipper guy glazed them.apparently when still wet inside! My husband painted them including the glaze, then paint rubbed & peeled off. When he removed glazing, the wood underneath was damp. Nightmare! Now he is removing all glaze and lightly sanding them. The person hiring him gave him can of sarco M, What if anything can he do to help prevent brown ooze? can he prime before applying new glaze, and if so what exact kind of primer? And how long should he wait for wood to dry inside? At present, the paint owners have chosen is a charcoal latex. Please help us as we are desperate and in a hurry! Thankyou!

    1. Suzanne, I would get a moisture meter and put some fans on those windows. Let them dry until the moisture content is below 15% and then you can start priming and glazing again, until then it’s best to leave them bare for a while. I had success beating the brown ooze that way.

      1. Thank you so much! He is working inside the garage, not outdoors.We will get moisture meter, and when dry, prime with oil based primer, then apply sarco M putty to reglaze, then use latex paint over putty and wood. Does this sound like I have understood the many posts you have written? I must get this right. Thankyou again…

  24. I have been in the construction business for 41 years ,as a carpenter and contractor. Have done some window re glaze jobs through the years. I have used Dap glazing compound and never with any problems.We have always used oil based primer on the muntins before setting the glass in a thin bed of compound , and then putting glazing in the entire “L” cut of the rabbet. When skinned over , anywhere from a couple days to a couple weeks, usually the latter, yes I said that, we would PRIME the glazing with oil base. Then ,when dry,we would put on a coat of finish paint , usually latex. Back in the day , oil base was not a bad word for some exterior work. Well , now I am currently working on a large window restoration job where the sashes are being removed, and are in shop conditions. and was using Dap at the beginning , but I decided to go with the Sarco type M because of the websites ” 5 to 7″ days ready to paint claim. And, it seemed lots of those in the historic restoration trade supposedly use Sarco. So , I want to give it a try. All seemed ok until we used our oil primer on the 14 day well skinned over compound. Seemed to have a little wrinkling problem. Now the reps at Sarco tell me ,”We don’t recommend using a primer on our glazing , just go over it with a finish coat of latex !”. What ! No primer ! The first three things they use to teach us in construction was 1, payday was on Friday, 2 ,poop runs downhill ,and 3, always prime new wood, raw metal,any masonry etc, and uhhh oh yea , new glazing. So , we called Benjamin Moore techs, and they say we should prime the compound before any top coat….. so I am curios to any input of this problem.

  25. Why is the type M recommended for use only in a shop?

    I am removing old broken glazing from 50+ year wood windows.

    I learned that before applying the new putty, it is important to put some linseed oil on the wood. Is this still the case?

    Thanks so much!!

    1. Either out linseed oil in the glazing rabbet or use an oil based primer on the glazing rabbet before applying putty. The Type-M cures so quickly that if it is exposed to the elements is can fail prematurely. It should be painted before being put into service.

  26. Scott,
    I choose to go with the Sarco Type M glaze for our windows. We are pulling everything apart sanding them down staining the inside and painting the outside. That’s the way all the windows in the house were when we purchased the house. I have primed the windows with oil based primer and am waiting for the stain to dry before polyurethaning the inside portions of the windows. For the paint on the exterior side over the glazing do I use an oil based paint? I would like to use Benjamin Moore Sherwin Williams or another quality paint but they say they don’t sell exterior oil based paint. Am I missing something is it called something else is shellack what I use instead? Thanks for all the information. I am trying so hard to maintain the integrity of our old farmhouse.

  27. Hi Scott,

    I have Hope windows I am restoring in place. I’m looking for a dark glaze. Would you please a recommendation? Thanks so much for your work and blog.

      1. Hi Scott, thanks so much for your reply. Will Sarco tiny the color themselves? Where would I find the color selection?
        Thanks again for your help.

          1. If you tint the Sarco putty, does that mean you don’t have to paint it? I’m also reglazing powdercoated steel windows. I don’t want to mess up the powder coating on the windows by painting it. But I also don’t want the putty to fail.

            If you have to paint the Sarco, then is there any reason to tint it?

  28. Scott. Thanks for all the great information. Can you clarify what is meant by the statement that the SARCO Type M is only “recommended for glazing in a shop”. I am going to be restoring a number of windows and working on them in a basement. Does working on them in a shop just mean that the window glazing needs to be protected from the elements or is their an implication that it needs the shop to be at a warmer temperature?

    1. Dan, sorry for the late reply! Any glazing putty needs temps above about 50 degrees to cure. Type M is no different and Sarco suggests is be for shop use while curing and before painting because it can cure too fast with UV exposure and the elements which can cause it to crack.

  29. Scott, I love the tint idea for, “the old white putty [that] can be seen from the inside,” how much tint is normal to use? Could icing tint coloring work, also? Your page on glazing mentioned black putty, but it’s bad cement quality, is there other cement powders like volcanic ash that shouldn’t be used?

    1. I’m not sure what icing tint is made from, but I would imagine that mixing a tint meant for water based products with the few water based putties or mixing an oil-based tint with an oil-based putty would work well. Just make sure to test it first and keep oils and waters separated.

  30. I saw your post that putty can be tinted to match a specific color. Is there any window glazes that would accept stains to match the window and door framing in my entryway?

  31. I’m going to be reglazing as the weather is dropping in temperature. Since I will be glazing the upper sashes in place, does the temperature affect which product to use? Also, for painting the primer and/or topcoat, does the temperature decide whether or not to paint on a given day?

  32. Scott, I tried to purchase a $42 gallon of Sarco Dual Glaze here on the site, but it kept adding a $20 quart to my gallon order, with no way to remove it, thereby increasing the charge to $62. So I didn’t buy it (yet).

    1. Never mind; I think I figured it out. The gallon is $42 more than the $20 quart. Kind of a strange way of presenting purchasing options!

  33. Thanks for the review. It’s very helpful. Still deciding between Sarco Type-M and Aqua Glaze. So Sarco Type-M is not supposed to be exposed to elements, hence the in-shop glazing only recommendation? I also read about the recommendation of waiting 2 weeks before painting. What would happen if I put the sash back into window right glazing with Type-M and not paint it until after 2 weeks?

    1. James, the Type-M only needs 3-4 days before it’s ready for paint. It’s the Dual Glaze that needs the extended time of 2 weeks.
      Aquaglaze is good in a pinch but for the long haul Type-M is a longer lasting and better option. I’ve seen a lot of testing to confirm that as well.

      1. Hi Scott,

        I know you say that typically Type-M only needs 3-4 days to skin over before painting, but I’m somewhat confused because according to Sarco, it says wait to paint at least 14 days for TYPE M. I’d like to go ahead and paint my sash that I glazed with Type-M Sarco putty, but I’m not sure how long I should wait. What will happen if I paint it prematurely? Thanks for your advice.

        1. Crystal Sarvo has been giving me conflicting dates too but after 3-4 days with fans on the putty and warming temps (over 65) I have never had trouble painting. If you paint to soon you will get a crackle finish on the paint because it won’t bond to the oils on the surface.

  34. I’m painting my wood window sashes (interior and exterior) a very dark charcoal/almost black color. I’ve already painted the interior, and the old white putty can be seen from the inside and it doesn’t look good. Even if I paint the white putty a dark color, the white will still be seen from the inside. The windows need to be reglazed and I haven’t had much luck finding a black putty. I was wondering if I could tint white putty, and if so, what do I use to do this? Any suggestions?

    1. Hi Melinda
      I am a conservator who does lots of window restoration. Simply put, if you can see the edge of the putty from the inside, there is too much applied. We glaze the windows and knife the putty so that it is even with the inside of the muntin or a hair below that line. then you lap the exterior paint slightly onto the glass to create the perfect seal. no need to tint the putty if you are painting both sides and the putty isnt proud of the wood edge line.

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