How To: Use Boiled Linseed Oil (Safely)

By Scott Sidler • May 4, 2015

how-to-use-boiled-linseed-oilBoiled Linseed Oil (BLO) is a common item in my shop and in a lot of woodworker’s shops. It is a great oil treatment for woods, leaving a smooth touch on the surface. It revitalizes old dried wood and gives it a new life.

BLO is often mixed with other finishes and was once one of the main ingredients in most paints. There are still companies that make linseed oil paints like Allback if you’re interested.

Boiled Linseed Oil is not actually “boiled” like the name suggests, rather, it is chemically modified to encourage faster drying. Slow drying oils are a good thing, but regular linseed oil can take weeks or even months to fully cure in cold weather and that’s just too stinking long. Boiled Linseed Oil will dry in only a few days give or take depending on weather.

As awesome as this product is for both wood and metal, it has some dangers (specifically flammability) that need to be addressed in order to use it safely. Let’s talk about safety first.

Boiled Linseed Oil Safety

The hard truth is that Boiled Linseed Oil can spontaneously combust if stored or used improperly.

“Why on earth would you use it then?”

Well, gasoline is a lot more flammable than BLO and I don’t hear anyone calling their cars a death trap (except Corvair owners).

Here’s what happens: BLO cures by a chemical reaction with the surrounding oxygen in the air not by evaporation like water based finishes. This reaction generates heat like most chemical reactions. The heat generated can be intense in certain circumstances and can lead to spontaneous combustion.

Larger amounts of BLO create greater heat. Smaller quantities generate less heat.


How to Avoid Fires

  • Always store BLO in metal containers. You can pour it into plastic containers for temporary use, but for long term storage it should be in a metal container.
  • Any rags soaked with BLO should be laid flat on a non-flammable surface away from flammable items until they are completely dry or they can be placed in a metal container with water.

The most common source of BLO fires is from a wadded up rag that has been soaked in BLO. The rag is wadded up and thrown in the trash with wood dust, newspapers or other kindling.

Since it is wadded up, it generates more heat because there is no air to pass over it and cool it. It then heats up to the flash point of the surrounding materials and the fire starts.

Watch this video to see how this happens.


Despite this issue, I still believe BLO is a great option for wood and metal. Read below, and you can learn how to safely use Boiled Linseed Oil.


Boiled Linseed Oil & Wood

BLO is a great protectant for wood both indoors and outdoors. It beautifies any wood and, once cured, protects the wood from sun and water damage. It can really reinvigorate old dried out wood and bring it back to a healthy status.

linseed oil penetration
Image Copyright:

The powerful thing about an oil finish like BLO is its deep penetrating abilities. After application, the wood fibers draw the oil deep inside which protects not just the surface, but the whole piece of wood like in the image here.

Wipe on a couple coats of BLO on furniture, trim, or any bare wood and let it dry until it is no longer tacky (usually 24-72 hrs). The application is as simple as it gets and the results are more than worth the effort, which is why it has been used for hundreds of years by carpenters and refinishers.


Boiled Linseed Oil & Metal

A lesser known use for BLO is to protect metal from oxidation. You can apply a thin coat to non-moving parts and once dry it will protect and beautify the surface. Thick coats can get gummy which is another reason you don’t want to use this in moving parts which get stuck together.

I use it mainly for chisels, screwdrivers, heirloom tools, block planes, and more specifically cast iron tops of my “Big-Boy” tools in the shop like the table saw, mortiser, and band saw.

Sand off the rust and polish the metal with some 0000 steel wool, then wipe on a thin coat of BLO and you’re good to go.


Boiled Linseed Oil has one other thing that can cause concern, especially in humid climates. On exterior surfaces in humid wet climates it has a tendency to mildew. So, before you go coat all your adirondack chairs, test an area for a while and see how it does.

If you do get mildew, it’s not the end of the world as it can be easily cleaned off, but that’s why in Florida I prefer to use it mainly indoors.



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219 thoughts on “How To: Use Boiled Linseed Oil (Safely)”

  1. I have a question I haven’t been able to find an answer to. I made a wax compound using beeswax and BLO, but it came out a bit too thick. I heated the wax, let it cool a bit, then added the BLO.
    Would it be unsafe to reheat the mixture to liquid again and add a bit more BLO to get a more workable consistency, or is that prescription for disaster?

    1. mixing with spirit makes application easier and penetrates the wood better, after the spirits evaporate the oil will cure as normal

    1. Safe for surfaces that will regularly come in contact with skin, yes, because BLO hardens when it drys and fully cures. Not for food prep surfaces like cutting boards, butcher blocks, etc because of the chemicals used in the heating process. For those surface, and depending on if the cabinet will see use in food prep, us BLO on the bodies and use Tung oil, mineral oil, or RAW linseed oil(which just takes crazy long to cure and dry).
      Hope this helps!

  2. How do I remove linseed oil from galvanized metal. I’ve been using a razor blade. Can you suggest an easier way?

    1. Depending on the condition of the wood, BLO can help revitilize old wood. I would recommend powerwashing, let dry, then sand(to expose ‘fresh’ wood) and thoroughly sweeping/shop vaccing to remove all dust, then several coats of BLO.
      for each application, allow the oil to soak in for a half hour before wiping off excess, then let dry for a day, then reapply. Sand after the second coat if you want to and then apply third final coat.

  3. I just picked up a trunk from the early 1800’s. It’s difficult to tell what kind of wood it’s made if, I only know there appears to be 2 different shades. A darker shade for the main construction of the trunk & another for strips across the top & around the sides. I want to restore to original glory. There is brass attaching the strips across & around the sides, as well as on the corners, latches & original lock. Can I use BLO on the brass??

  4. Just bought a house that was told to use Linseed oil on the exterior. Is it best to spray, roll, or brush on? I would think a sprayer would be quicker, but is it better. If a sprayer…what recommendations. If spraying is not an option, can we roll on?

  5. can I use linseed oil on a wicker lampshade that has dried out? After it has dried completely is there danger of the wicker catching fire from the light bulb heat?

    If it’s not wise to use it can you suggest another product?
    Many Thanks!

  6. I live on Guam which is very humid and hot. I have purchased a banjo and noticed that the inside walls of the resonator are bare wood. The back is black. I need to know if boiled linseed oil could be applied to the bare wood walls to seal them without changing the sound of the banjo?

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