Learning to reglaze your old windows is something that scares the pants off of many homeowners. But fear not! It does require practice and a bit of an artist’s touch to get it just right, but like anything, practice makes perfect. You can learn to reglaze your old windows yourself with just a little practice and some good training.
However, describing how to reglaze your old windows in a blog post is a bit like trying to teach someone to dance via cell phone. So, I’ve put together a short video to walk you through the steps of bedding and reglazing an old window. Along with a few tips and resources I’ve included in this post, you should be able to reglaze your own windows with confidence.That’s right! The Craftsman has its own YouTube channel! And I’ll be posting lots more videos to teach you all kinds of new skills. So, stop by YouTube and subscribe to our channel for updates whenever we post a new video. And don’t forget to like our video and share it with your friends if you find it helpful.
- Always prime a bare sash with an oil-based primer prior to glazing.
- Wear gloves when handling antique glass. It is very brittle and can easily break.
- Wait until the glazing putty has formed a skin (3-4 days for Type-M putty or 2-3 weeks for Dual Glaze putty) before you attempt to paint.
- Do not prime the glazing putty after you have glazed your window. Just add 2 coats of a quality enamel paint.
- Sarco Glazing Putty – This is the only brand of glazing putty I recommend. It is linseed-oil based and as close to the old stuff they used to use. If you are glazing your windows in a garage or shop, use Sarco Type-M putty. If your windows will be glazed outside and exposed to the elements prior to painting, use Sarco Dual Glaze.
- Diamond Glazing Points – These points are the smallest and easiest to hide under the glazing putty which allows you to have the cleanest glazing lines.
- Speedheater Cobra – For removing old paint that may contain lead paint, infrared heat is a safe way to get the job done. It’s expensive, but most things that work well usually are. *Always use proper protection and follow the EPA’s rules when dealing with lead paint.
- Glazier’s Tool – For me, this tool provides the best angle to get a nice smooth line and allows me to cut in to get perfect (most of the time!) corners.
If you’ve got more tips or suggestions I’d love to hear your ideas in the comments below.
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I love old houses, working with my hands, and teaching others the excitment of doing it yourself! Everything is teachable if you only give it the chance.
165 thoughts on “How To: Reglaze Your Old Windows (Video Tutorial)”
Thanks for this video, wish I had watched it before starting my glazing! My windows as the rim on which to apply the bedding is on the outside rather than the inside (basically the reverse of what is in your video). If I bed the glass and glaze the inside of the window, do I also need to glaze the outside?
That’s unusual, but you can still do it the same way. Glaze the inside and leave the outside with the profile. Be sure to bed the glass into putty before glazing it.
Wondering if you ever stain old windows after removing the paint. I really don’t want to cover the wood with paint.
I recently purchased an older home. The exterior glazing is in fine shape, but it is definitely visible from the inside. Can I putty the inside of the window to match the visible lines of the exterior putty? It seems this would be ok and only serve as a double barrier?
You mention 3/8″ diamond points in the video but the link on this post goes to triangle points. What is the difference practically and as far as ease of use and firm hold on the glass? I’m not sure if I should get diamond or triangle.
Thanks so much for all your advice, I’ve followed it to a T. (Bought a Cobra and it is a life-saver). I have a question regarding your last line of advice for painting reglazed windows, particularly the glazing. You say to paint it directly with two coats of enamel paint. I have an exterior paint from Ben Moore that I’m using, should I go ahead and prime with oil-based primer because this isn’t enamel (I don’t want the gloss of enamel on the window). Or can I use a high quality water-based primer instead? Thank you for this and your great store, where I recently got a bunch of great stuff. Your customer service is really wonderful too, very interactive and helpful.