How To: Reglaze Your Old Windows (Video Tutorial)

By Scott Sidler • October 22, 2012

Window ReglazingLearning to reglaze your old windows is something that scares the pants off of many homeowners. But fear not! It does require practice and a bit of an artist’s touch to get it just right, but like anything, practice makes perfect. You can learn to reglaze your old windows yourself with just a little practice and some good training.

However, describing how to reglaze your old windows in a blog post is a bit like trying to teach someone to dance via cell phone. So, I’ve put together a short video to walk you through the steps of bedding and reglazing an old window. Along with a few tips and resources I’ve included in this post, you should be able to reglaze your own windows with confidence.

 That’s right! The Craftsman has its own YouTube channel! And I’ll be posting lots more videos to teach you all kinds of new skills. So, stop by YouTube and subscribe to our channel for updates whenever we post a new video. And don’t forget to like our video and share it with your friends if you find it helpful.


    1. Always prime a bare sash with an oil-based primer prior to glazing.
    2. Wear gloves when handling antique glass. It is very brittle and can easily break.
    3. Wait until the glazing putty has formed a skin (3-4 days for Type-M putty or 2-3 weeks for Dual Glaze putty) before you attempt to paint.
    4. Do not prime the glazing putty after you have glazed your window. Just add 2 coats of a quality enamel paint.


    • Sarco Glazing Putty – This is the only brand of glazing putty I recommend. It is linseed-oil based and as close to the old stuff they used to use. If you are glazing your windows in a garage or shop, use Sarco Type-M putty. If your windows will be glazed outside and exposed to the elements prior to painting, use Sarco Dual Glaze.
    • Diamond Glazing Points – These points are the smallest and easiest to hide under the glazing putty which allows you to have the cleanest glazing lines.
    • Speedheater Cobra – For removing old paint that may contain lead paint, infrared heat is a safe way to get the job done. It’s expensive, but most things that work well usually are.  *Always use proper protection and follow the EPA’s rules when dealing with lead paint.
    • Glazier’s Tool – For me, this tool provides the best angle to get a nice smooth line and allows me to cut in to get perfect (most of the time!) corners.

If you’ve got more tips or suggestions I’d love to hear your ideas in the comments below.

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149 thoughts on “How To: Reglaze Your Old Windows (Video Tutorial)”

  1. Thank you for your wondrous information. I have been following it to the letter. I have two questions left. After deglazing and sanding, I notice my Windows have 3 normal rabbits, but at the top they have a slit the window slides into. When I go to reglaze, do I fill this slot with putty then put the window in, or slide it in dry and glaze? Secondly, though I feel all your categories are very easy to understand and follow, I am not getting the section about spring bronze installation. I get the gist of it, but one major concept I am no getting is which direction I install it in. Can you please clear this up? Does “Pac man” face inside or outside? Thank you for your time.

  2. I have started my project following all your directions that i can. I am to the priming point right now and would like to clarify. Do i prime the area that the putty and glass will go, or leave it bare? Watching the video, I believe everything gets primed, but I wanted to clarify before I potentially make a mistake.

  3. Are looking to reglaze our 100-year-old church’s large multi-paned windows. One company proposes to get out all the putty and replace with PVC stops, caulked to the frame. This would save time and avoid a sloppy putty and paint job. What do you think?

  4. This putty often lasts decades, but over the years it becomes rock-hard, cracks and even falls off the window.

  5. The intense heat will do some damage to the surrounding paint, so if you go this route, your project will expand to scraping and repainting the entire window.

  6. I tried to read through the comments and don’t think i saw an answers to what my questions are –
    1 – I am using Sarco Type M putty on reglazing some of the windows on my 1849 house in Connecticut. I bought the can last year to do some windows. When my husband opened it he said there was a lot of oil on the top but the putty seems a little dry. Is this putty no good now? Any way to revive it?
    2 – how do you decide when it is time to reputty a window. I have some panes of glass where the putty has periodic cracks in it. Does this require reglazing. They haven’t been touched in 40+ years, they are removed for repainting now. I don’t want them failing in 5 years from now, but also don’t want to do unnecessary work.

    Thanks so much

    1. Gale, the putty should give you 30-40 years of good life before needing replacement. If the putty has oil on top you can turn the can upside down for a couple weeks and the oil will work it’s way back into the putty. Type M doesn’t keep quite as long as DualGlaze though so it may be past a good working time. You can buy more in our store if you need at anytime.

  7. I’m restoring an old church building from 1873 — will be my home. As a kid I remember painters using Putty to fill small holes and other imperfections — cracks in window sills … etc. This was before the advent of better caulks and epoxy products. They would simply push it in with a thumb and smooth it over … my memory was they told me to do this after priming.

    Guess this was glazing putty?

    The reason I ask: I have restored / repainted my share of exterior old wood work. Most of the new caulks fail by the time the paint fails … and the epoxy will often pop out of smaller cracks. I’m saying to myself ……going “old school” may be better with these old window frames.

    Do you ever use glazing putty ? and why do you say above .. not to prime the putty?

    Thanks — TAG

  8. great video – I have 24 windows – house is 100 yrs old next year – most windows no longer open or close and they all let the cold winter wind come through – I was going to replace all the windows with new energy windows but read I reconsider re-glaze them instead – how does this stop the cold air from coming through? the house needs insulation as well – so which would be a better choice for heat retention – re-glazing old wooden windows or buying new windows – thank you

      1. Do you have a post or video on how to weather strip wood sash windows? My current set up has nothing as far as insulation and wasn’t sure if that was how it was supposed to be.

        1. There’s a number of different weather stripping available, the most reliable usually require you to use a router and make a groove. Something like this is good for tops, bottoms, and meeting rails. Pile weather stripping is good for the sides. There’s a great book called The Window Sash Bible that goes into tons of detail about window restoration.

  9. Thank you for your informative post, and still answering questions years after you posted. I searched a lot of your answers to make sure i wans’t asking something that has been addressed, and did not find anything. I have two questions left after all the reading and videos. First question; I am about to do about 215ish feet of glazing on my old windows. How much glaze should i buy (pint, quart, gallon, more)? Secondly, I live in a split level house where the upper part gets really hot. I was planning on buying some heat rejecting tint and tint the upper windows before reglazing. If i follow your directions, will the glaze interact negatively with the tint? Thank you for your time and all the responses you have provided to everyone.

    1. Josiah, I would apply the tinting on the inside so there is no issues with compatibility. For 215 ft of glazing probably 1 gallon should be pretty close. You may need another quart at the end of it all though.

  10. On the subject of diamond shaped glazing points…I used to work for a picture frame maker and we had this glazing point gun/stapler, that shot the glazing points in on the horizontal and worked wonderfully to put in the points without breaking the picture frame glass. It’s been many years since I worked there and was wondering if you had any idea where I could find one to buy. I;m looking at a ton of windows to restore and reglaze over the next year!

      1. Thank you Scott. You just made my life a whole lot easier. I’m on eBay a lot for restoration items and never even thought to look for the point driver there.

  11. Hi Scott,
    I’m using your Sarco glazing on my old windows (thanks so much for recommending it, I love it so much better than DAP), but I haven’t been able to find in whiting and cleaning my windows up has been….challenging! I’m wondering if I can use construction marking chalk, it’s calcium carbonate. Is that what whiting is also? Or how about drywall powder, which I”ve seen mentioned in some comments.

    1. Sorry, this is 8 months late, ha ha.

      Many people use drywall compound. The “time” to set up does not matter a bit. Sprinkle liberally on the pane, and use a soft brush to distribute it onto your glazing. Don’t overdo it; you don’t want to make lines in, or disturb, your glazing.
      Then, use the brush to ‘clean’ the glass. The linseed oil on the panes will attract the joint compound powder and firm up. Finish with a cloth if necessary, being careful of your glazing.

  12. I’m currently restoring my first 1920’s sash window with the hope of replacing the single glazing with thin double glazing.
    And adding some draught proofing if I can manage it.

    When removing the existing single glazing the slot the glass sat in one side has some glass stuck in the slot. What is the best way to remove this old glass? I was thinking a very narrow chisel may be the best tool?

    Generally the windows are in good condition. If anyone could point me in the direction of a good guide to restoring vertical sash windows it would be very much appreciated.

    What glue should I use?
    I have some sash clamps as the joints on the first one have opened up/are loose.

    Many thanks in advance.

    1. Paul, a small chisel or 5-in-1 should work well to get that glass out. Check out my resource page on restoring wood windows for everything you need to get the job done.
      I would rethink adding double glazing. The energy gains are not worth the modifications you need to make. Usually the best way to improve the efficiency is through weatherstripping and adding either an interior or exterior storm to stop air leakage.

      1. Many thanks Scott. I will check it out.
        The thought behind changing over to double glazing is to increase the surface temperature of the glass internally so as to reduce the condensation on cold days.

  13. Scott – Great blog, really helping me do all kinds of things around the house that I’ve never thought I could do. I’ve been restoring all of my original 1912 double hung windows. Two things: 1) why is the access panel to the weights secured by the outer parting bead? I have to break it and remove it to open the panel. 2) what do you recommend to “seal” where the inner window frame meets the inner side of the glass? The wood seems to have deteriorated over time causing an unsightly ridge. I have reglazed the outer side but did not lift the original glass and lay a new putty bead or replace the glazing pins (this was the suggestion of my hardware store guy. Thanks!

  14. Scott,
    Ive been told that putty should never be used to glaze the exterior of laminate glass due to chemical reactions that cause both the laminate and putty to fail. What have you heard about this? thx – Cheers! – Murph

    1. William, laminated glass needs to have the edges sealed before being putty glazed to prevent those issues from occurring. Using a latex primer is usually all you need.

      1. So are you stating here that the glass itself should have a latex primer added around all edges? Is there a brand you would recommend?

  15. I have been doing some reglazing on the windows in the 1927 log cabin we live in. Lots of trimming the OLD glazing along the edges of the panes (you can see the uneven, many times painted edges from inside the window!)and replacing a few small panes. Some of the glazing trims away fairly easily and some chips off in ugly chunks leaving the edge of the glass exposed. Do I need to take all the old glazing out and redo it or can I patch it? We just rent here and obviously no one has cared about the horrible glazing job before (just paint over it!)and I don’t really have the time to redo all the panes if I don’t have to!

  16. I have been stripping my old wood storm windows to bare wood and repainting. These windows (and my double hungs) have wood stops instead of glazing. When I have removed the glass to replace it, or to make paint removal easier, I have not noticed any glazing compound or caulk in the glass bed. I’m wondering if I should put some down as I replace the glass. I have not been able to find any information on this on windows with wood stops. Thank you for your advice.

    1. If there are wood stops instead of glazing putty, put a small bead of clear silicone II caulk on the wood before you insert the glass. This will give you the seal you need. It is what is done on all the double pane replacement windows.

      1. Silicone does work good for this but be aware that if you ever need to remove it it is extremely difficult to do without damaging the wood because silicone has such a tight grip on bare wood.

  17. Scott, what specific primers are best suited for priming the sash before bedding the glass pane? I have read that oil-based primer or linseed oil should be used. But I have read that Zinsser Cover Stain Oil-Based Primer caused problem with curing of certain glazing compound. I have also read that BIN shellac primer is good choice because it dries fast. Which oil-based primers work? Drying fast helps, but is BIN primer suitable? Thanks.

  18. Hi Scott, I posted this comment on YouTube but wasn’t sure you would see it there so re-posted here… Thanks, great video. I really wish someone would address the ENTIRE process with the window IN PLACE (including stripping glazing & paint). I am currently working on my front window which has an exact-copy storm window on top of it. I was able to remove the storm to work on that in the garage, but the actual house window must stay in place. They are both 5×7 feet with 6 lights each. Each light is 17.5″ high x 36″ long. About 1/2 the glazing on the outside practically fell out of the window… the rest is requiring some doing; last evening, I made a tiny crack in one of the lights trying to get the glazing out… dammit! I am only 5’2″ tall & have had to come up with some creative ways to work on this (not able to rent or borrow scaffolding). I’d love to see some creative tips & video showing how to effectively remove that remaining glazing, glazing vertically/in place (especially the upper rabbets), & the challenges of getting large lights in & out without breaking them!! Thanks again! 🙂

    1. Sheila, the process isn’t much different if done in situ, only much more difficult. If you can remove the windows it always makes the work much easier. I haven’t found any tricks to do the work in place other than to make sure you have a good steady work platform because a ladder is exhausting to stand on for more than 20-30 mins.

  19. Hi Scott,

    I have a 1930 house and I am restoring the original casement windows. I have been kerfing in weather stripping at the perimeter of the windows, which has made a huge difference in the winter. As I am reglazing the windows I am wondering if someone makes a thin insulated replacement pane that I could install. My home is to get rid of the horrendous interior storm windows that were added in the 70’s. Love your site, thanks for the help!

    1. Scott, two options that could work well. Either install Indow Windows (which are a very slim line easy to install interior storm or replace he glass with laminated glass. Laminated glass is very slim 1/4″ and does better at stopping thermal transfer and sound than an IGU.

      1. Thanks Scott. The laminated pane is a great idea. Do you know any suppliers that make a small IGU or laminated pane? I have onle seen one on the web. Also, I thought maybe you would know an old-time window source that could make an all-wood casement- no hinges, seals- just a primed wood window. Many thanks!

  20. Scott-
    First, I’m loving your site and together with all the many posts it is very informative.
    My house was built in the 20’s and thus far I’m having a lot of difficulty removing the old putty that is basically concrete hard and with super adhesion to the wood. Additionally, the situation is that the panes must remain insitu. The heat gun didn’t work so I resorted to some aggressive techniques that I care not to mention.
    Have you ever faced a similar situation and were you forced to simply glaze over the old putty as best as possible?
    Thanking you in advance for your counsel.

  21. Are glazier points absolutely necessary? Are there only needed to hold the glass while the glaze sets up, or do they provide other long term benefits? I ask because I am half way through re-glazing 16 sashes, none of which had glazier points to begin with. They are large panes (24″ X 32″). I was doing just great with putting in the glazier points during my re-glazing job, but for some reason, today I broke two panes while inserting glazier points. Now I’m suddenly very concerned about using them.

    1. Lindi, they are a necessary part of the window. The points are what hold the glass securely in place since the putty will likely stay pliable for years or even a decade or more. You don’t want that glass falling out. Especially on large panes. The best bet is just to be as careful as you can. Breakage happens to the best of us so don’t let it get you down!

  22. I’m working on a church building, with walnut-stained wood-frame storm windows. The glazing putty on these storms is a mess – cracked, and crumbling out. I really have two questions: 1) if we apply new putty, can we stain it after it’s been applied? I don’t really want to paint it, since the frames aren’t painted. 2) Would it be reasonable to use a high quality dark brown caulk instead?

    1. Glazing putty has to be painted or it will fail very quickly. I’d use a brown paint that matches the storms color as closely as possible and just paint the putty. You can also tint the putty using oil-based colorant from the paint store.

  23. We installed DAP33 about 8 months ago. In the beginning, it wasn’t drying, so we waited to paint. Then we forgot about it. We just looked at it last week and noticed that there are some cracks. What can be done to fix the cracks? Is the unpainted DAP33 still okay or will it have to be removed?

  24. Really love the post, Scott. I have a question I’m hoping you can help me with. As I’m prepping my windows for deglazing, I’m having trouble removing some of the old glaze. In particular, on one window in place of a standard putty is a black substance akin to charcoal that is really difficult to scrape. Are you familiar with this substance and do you know of an efficient way to remove it? My house is from 1911 and the window is original. Thanks, Scott!

  25. Scott, I have an 1893 Queene Anne 2 1/2 story with about 78 windows mostly in beautiful wood but very breezy, and the third story impossible to safely deal with from the exterior. It is an overwhelming project but I want to restore the windows, mostly about 8′ tall by about 42″ wide.

  26. Thanks for an excellent post.

    We are about to have all of our windows in our 1920’s colonial re-glazed. What are the indications as to whether or not the windows need to be physically removed for re-glazing? Should they all be removed to do it appropriately, or as long as you have access to the window can be safely done while leaving in place?

    1. As long as you can safely reach everything you can do the work in place. Make sure to use a putty that can withstand exterior weather like Sarco Dual Glaze. Some putties are meant for shop glazing only.

  27. Scott,
    Started out simply wanting to re-paint my old 1940’s wooden windows. Upon further inspection all of the glaze that is present is crumbling, what is not glazed has been mistreated with caulk. The windows are in great shape however no need to take them down to repair/paint. My question for you is on the windows that have been caulked should I remove the caulk and reglaze? As the caulk has not failed as of yet. In addition do you have any experience with Glaze-ease 601? Can you recommend a product that goes on more like a caulk than a putty?

    1. Grace, if the caulk hasn’t failed I guess there’s no real reason to remove it other than appearance. As for Glaze-ease I haven’t tried it. I tend to stick with the tried and true putties that have been used for over a century because they are relatively easy to use and have been tested thoroughly.

  28. Hello,
    I have a question: I reglazed one window last summer and I was the putty did not dry for 6 months. Now I am reglazing it again. 5 days past but still it soft (I am using now a new putty Tap 33). May be it’ s because i did not put putty under window glass as you show. I put it only on the glass. Can you explain this please? Thank you, Inna

    1. DAP 33 may take a couple weeks to be ready for paint. The putties will stay soft for years, but once there is a thin skin on top it should be ready for paint even if it’s still soft.

  29. Hi Scott,

    We used Sarco Dual Glaze and let it set for 3-4 weeks. It seemed that a skin had formed, so we painted over them. As the paint dried, however, tiny little cracks formed all throughout the surface—an “alligatoring” effect. Do you think this is because the glazing was not yet ready to be painted? Or could there be another culprit? We used a good quality latex paint. Thanks.

    1. CW, it probably wasn’t ready for paint yet. Dual-Glaze can take a looong time to skin over enough sometimes depending on weather. Unless it’s steel windows I have started using Type-M glazing in the field which can be painted in just a few days.

      1. Dual Glaze does take quite a bit longer to skin over and set up than Type M. I think it’s superior to Type M so use it all the time. With application of whiting powder immediately after glazing to clean the glass of the linseed oil, it skins and sets in about a week, if left outside, ready for paint. No allorgating.

        Dust the whiting on with a soft 2″ or whatever old paint brush, let the whiting set on the glazing for a half hour or so, not too much more, and brush it up on a 6″ drywall compound knife.

        That can then be used on the next window as a, initial “primer” application of whiting, then tossed. A second application of fresh whiting, crystal clean glass, finishes off the glazing skin kick off party…. and so you go.

  30. Hello, and thanks for this informative thread. I have been reading and rereading different sites about reglazing windows. There are so many different techniques! I just ordered Glazol glazing online from HD and will pick up at the store.
    I am reglazing windows one by one in the elements. I cannot take the sashes out as all the trim work was recently redone inside the house and it would be cost prohibitive to take it all down and redo.
    My question is, is it okay to reglaze them outdoors? The old glazing crumbles off easily and I’ve cleaned most of it off. I have primed the sash and muntins (?) with oil based Cover Stain Primer and cleaned up the glass the best I could.
    None of the glass has been replaced. New Larson storm windows will be placed over all the windows to better protect them and hopefully give a warming factor to this old house. I do not want to replace the old windows as I LOVE the look of them especially indoors. They are becoming a rarity in old houses.
    Is it a big deal to leave small amounts of old putty on the window? I realize the knife won’t glide as smoothly, perhaps, but will the primer allow the new putty to adhere? Trying to do this correctly, but don’t necessarily want to be reglazing windows for the rest of my life!
    I’ve also read I shouldn’t clean the windows with window product for a YEAR. Could this be true, and why? If I use an ammonia-free foam type spray in a can, would this be okay?

    1. Pamela, remove aside putty as you can in place and then lay in new putty which will adhere to the old putty just fine. You can clean the glass after 30-45 days with standard glass cleaner. That amount of time gives the paint enough time to fully cure. I’ve never used the foam cleaner so I can’t speak to that specifically.

  31. Scott–
    I’m starting to reglaze all my 110-yr old windows. When I have a broken window, I’m obviously cleaning out and scraping/stripping the whole thing, but if I’m just reglazing, do I need to pull the window out? I ask, because that’s the time I’ll most likely break the window. Can I just strip/scrape the pane for repainting and leave the window bedded as is? I want the job to last, but I reeeeaally don’t want to break any of my old wavy-glass.

  32. Hi Scott,

    Had to fill some holes on the wooden window sills as I’ve left the mildew for too long. I’m treating them with 1:10 diluted bleach.

    Question: Do I have to wait for the bleach-treated window to be completely dry before applying linseed putty, or is it okay to apply immediately when still slightly damp?

    1. Brian, I’d probably treat with something a bit stronger like 1:3 bleach and let the surface dry out before applying putty. You should also either prime any bare wood with an oil-based primer or wipe on some boiled linseed oil before applying the putty to keep the wood from sucking the oil out of the putty too quickly.

  33. Hi Scott, must you wait until the putty has set (2-3 weeks) until the windows can be installed. My windows are ground floor and I’m not keen on leaving the windows boarded up for 2-3 weeks in an existing family home.

    1. The windows can be installed prior to the putty developing a skin and then painted in place or pulled out to paint once the putty is ready. Check with the putty manufacturer because the cure time for the putty may be shorter or longer. The 2 week rule is just a rough guideline.

      1. Thanks Scott. Will new putty bond with old putty, if replacing just the portions of old putty that have now eroded? I noticed your video is a full restoration, but is this necessary if only 1-2 inches (of an 18 inch) glass panel now needs replacing.

  34. great Discussion. thank you for keeping it alive.
    I have been restoring my old wooden windows. I use sacro multi glaze and love it. My question. Most of the windows do not have glazing between the rabbit and the glass. from everything I have read it seems that it is best practice. The windows are probably 1940 ish and are in good shape wood wise-no rot. Can you comment on if this is absolutely necc.

  35. I live in an old house that has 35 double hung windows and 35 wood storm windows. The paint that can be purchased today is inferior in quality and the storm windows need to have the glazing repaired and need to be repainted about every five years. It doesn’t get done that often but that is how long the paint lasts.

    Many years ago the paint store in town carried a line of paints called Bronzite. Bronzite was a line of green paints. It held up very well and lasted for many more years than today’s best paints available to homeowners. When I was a kid my father, who was a carpenter, had me mix up dried out glazing compound by hand. Knead whiting (calcium carbonate) and linseed oil with dried out glazing compound until the desired consistency is reached. What a mess.

    I have used Dap 33 glazing compound for as long as I can remember only because that is all that was available in stores. I am not thrilled with Dap 33 as I find it can flake off, pull away from the glass and does not seem to hold up as well as I would like.

    I know a little about glazing windows from years of experience. I own three houses with old windows so I often find myself replacing broken glass. You haven’t had fun glazing until you try to remove white lead that was used for glazing compound.

    Two questions:

    1) What is the purpose of the bedding before the glass pain is installed in the windows? I have never seen old windows that were installed in a bed of compound and I have never bothered to bed glass when making repairs.

    2) What happens if you don’t wait the two weeks for the glazing compound to skin over before painting? This is not practical when you are repairing the glazing and painting 35 storm windows. I generally wait a few days, but two weeks in not practical.

    1. Joe, the bedding, air seals the individual panes of glass and also helps prevent rattling windows and guards against condensation damage. As for the 2 weeks waiting time that is what Sarco recommends for their putty. If you paint too soon the oils in the putty will cause the paint to fail almost immediately. There are other options like Aquaglaze which is paintable the next day. Also you can use linseed oil putty and linseed oil paint which allows you to paint immediately after glazing.

  36. When restoring my first set of sash, I used the Dap 33. That window sat in my basement with my dehumidifier running, along with fans, and 10 days later it still hadn’t set up!

    I had a window restoration expert send me the Sarco. That was like day & night.

    After removing all paint & shellac from my frames, I like to give them a coat of a linseed/turpentine mix. Rehydrates the wood & the turp assists in dry time & helping the oil to soak in.

    I lay a bead of the Sarco in the rabbet & carefully lay the window inside. Next, I take my palm sander & with a thick rag underneath, I run the sander into all the corners of the glass. This sets the glass into the bed of putty.

    Trick to assist with the diamond points: I take a sharp, pointy steak knife & slide it into the wood, push the point into that, the carefully take a pair of 90 deg angled needle nose pliers & push on the diamond point…seating it into the wood until it’s no longer visible from the underside of the frame.

    Yes, this can be tricky, but I have never broken a single pane doing this. When the wood has been treated with the linseed oil, it’s softer (until it fully soaks in) & makes seating those points very easy.

    I then follow up by adding the putty to the rabbet over the glass.

  37. Dear Scott,
    Great article but I found it too late. I just completed reglazing 45 panes of storm windows and the main double hung windows with Dap 33 and really don’t want to start over. I live in NJ where it is starting to get cold. I have the storm windows inside where I thought they would dry quickly but that isn’t happening. My question is can I hang the storm windows back up for the winter and then prime and paint everything in the spring or am I looking for trouble. I see discussions of minimum time to wait but don’t see the maximum time. I am not concerned about the appearance since the storm windows and double hung windows are all white anyway. Thank you very much.

    1. Paul, DAP 33 is just fine. It’s not my favorite but it definitely gets the job done. In my experience DAP can be left out for a month or so before you may have problems. Here are the recommendations from DAP’s site regarding painting.

      1. DAP® ‘33’® Glazing must be painted after it has skinned over and attained a firm set. Firm set is
      typically demonstrated when a light finger touch to the surface does not leave a fingerprint. Firm
      set may occur in as little as 7 days after application, but more likely 2-3 weeks after application.
      Painting must be done only after firm set is achieved.
      2. When painting, use only (i) a high quality exterior-grade oil-based paint, or (ii) prime with a high
      quality oil-based primer and topcoat with a high quality exterior-grade acrylic-latex paint finish.
      The paint line must overlap onto the face portion of the glass, as well as the bedding area where
      the sash and glass meet.

  38. I’m doing my double hung windows one sash at a time as time allows – which isn’t much these days with two little ones and a busy work schedule. But my two cents on the topics above are:

    – I’ve been fully restoring the sashes so far, including removal and re-bedding of each light in 6-light sashes, stripping off all old paint, patching and filling damage muntins, priming, and re-painting. At the rate I’m going, I’ll be done with all 40 windows in about 20 years. It may be easier to start leaving some of the glass in and not being so picky with the perfection of the paint finish.

    – Probably need to try Sarco. The Dap product isn’t terrible to work with, but I would like the re-glaze to go a little faster.

    – The M-glazing points are too tall for all of my windows, had to order diamond points on Amazon.

    – I’ve not had to use whiting at all, the drywall dust trick has worked really well. Just applying it with a dry brush seems to do the trick.

    – I’ve been finishing the windows except for the exterior painting, and then letting the putty cure in place. I paint the exteriors after they’ve been hanging for a couple of weeks. It’s a little annoying because you’re not 100% done as you’d like to be. But I noticed that if I went less than a week, the paint wouldn’t take well to the putty because of the remaining oil on the putty.

    – I also need to think about how much prep work I need to do on the openings. If you really want to, you can take every last piece of old paint off. But it’s really not worth it unless the paint is lose.

    – Parting stops have been a pain. The old ones tend to split either during removal of don’t want to go back in if they’ve been out for a while. When I’ve replaced them, I’ve had to run the material through the table saw because the stop material I get at Home Depot is just a hair to thick. Its almost as if the stop seat closes up when you pull the beads.

    1. Joh, sounds like you’re on the right track. Fully restoring old windows can be a lot of work. Some things to make it go a little easier would be:

      1. Get a pair of duck-bill Vice-Grips to help you get the parting bead out easier.
      2. If the putty bed isn’t in bad shape you can certainly leave it and not remove it completely. I’ve found that steam or infrared heat will soften the putty enough to make removal a lot easier.

      Good luck and fight the good fight!

  39. Sarco glaze is great, the question I have is what is the “dusting powder” product that professional glazers use right after glaze is applied. I’ve seen this and it looks like it cleans and seals the glaze.

    1. Ed, it’s called whiting and it absorbs all the extra oils on the putty and cleans the glass after you’re finished glazing. It’s the only way to go. In a pinch you can use powdered drywall compound for the same effect.

  40. Hi Scott, If I don’t want to buy Sarco to glaze just a window or 2, should I use the basic DAP glazing material or their Painter’s Putty 53?

    1. Cara, You can, but I’m not a fan of DAP’s glazing products. I find they fail prematurely. I’ll soon be offering Sarco putty on the blog in small quantities if you can wait a another month.

  41. Hi Scott,

    We used Sarco Dual Glaze in-situ and let it set for 3 weeks. We primed the sashes only (not the glazing) and then applied multiple coats of oil-based white paint. One month later, there is already mildew. It does not seem that the putty is mildewing, but more just mildew on the surface of the paint. We are in a very hot and humid climate. Might the mildew be a result of using oil-based paint? Or is it inevitable that mildew will show up if the windows stay wet (there is constantly condensation forming on them)? Thanks for any insight.

    1. Courtney, we fight the humid rainy summers down here in Florida too. I have had this happen to me a few times and haven’t honestly figured out exactly what the culprit is. There are a few things that will definitely help. First, oil-based paint used outside in a humid climate can mildew quickly if you don’t add a mildewicide to it. Even then it can happen in wet areas. Latex paint doesn’t do this nearly as much. Second, Sarco Dual-Glaze can be very oily and if that is the case I add some whiting to the putty to absorb some of the excess oils before glazing. Not too much because you don’t want to dry it out too quickly. Then after glazing clean the glass and glazing gently with whiting and an old paint brush. This helps absorb any surface oil and jumpstart the skinning over process. The putty may need more than 3 weeks before it’s ready for paint. I’ve waited 4 and even 5 weeks (because I forgot or got too busy) and still been fine and sometimes even had better results since more of the oils had dried. Let me know how it goes.

      1. Thanks, Scott! Really appreciate it. Might start some testing for different methods will let you know what works for us.

  42. Scott, I really appreciate your video and tips, thanks for sharing your expertise! Question for you-we have old wooden casement windows, about 51″ high and 21″ wide. Two are joined together so they can be slid, opening to the outside. Problem is, they are on a cottage on a lake up north, they’ve gotten heavy wear over the years, and my husband is leery of even trying to repair the wood muttons and outside frames of the window (he thinks the wood is in too bad of shape, but, I would like to save them). I know we need to scrape old paint off, sand, and prime before reglazing, but what if some of the wood muttons are in poor condition? Can I use wood putty to restore? At what point do you think windows would not be worth saving? Thanks so much for your comments!

      1. Scott, thanks so much for your reply! I will definitely take a look at the epoxy tutorial. As we begin our project, I’ll follow up!

  43. My windows were removed to have the weight ropes replaced a few years back and I finally have gotten the inside trim all repaired from this endeavor and now my glazing is failing (I got some water seepage on our last big sideways rain). So I’d really like to make this repair in place. Can I reglaze the outside without removing the panes and replacing the interior “seating” portion?

    1. Amy, you can glaze the windows without removing them. Just dig out the failing putty and install new finish glazing in place. Make sure you don’t wait too long to paint because the putty will mildew if left unpainted.

  44. Hi Scott,

    How long can Sarco putty stay exposed before it is detrimental to the putty? We glazed the windows in-situ, and may not be able to get back to paint them for at least 3 weeks.

    Thanks very much for your expertise.

    1. Sarco DualGlaze can stay exposed (in my experience) for a couple months without being painted. Sarco Type M putty should not be exposed to the elements at all, but Inhave found it to be okay for a couple weeks max (though I recommend against it. Left in the elements you may have mildew and mold growth on the putty that shows up after painting. The less time it is exposed to elements the less chance of mold.

  45. In the middle of de-glazing my first sash, and I’ve already cracked two lights. I’m hoping I get better at this! I did discover one small surprise that is making things a little more difficult. In the upper sash, all six lights was glazed with putty at all fours sides. In the lower sash, the top of the upper three lights is not sealed with putty – there’s a thin slot the lights were slid into and then dropped onto the shoulder at the three other sided. I get the concept from a waterproofing perspective, but the installer packed putty in the slot which is holding onto the light pretty well. I strip the putty off the other three sides, but have a tough time loosening the putty in the slot. That’s how I broke one tonight. Ever had to deal with that one?

  46. Hi Scott
    I forgot to ask about the tool that you are using to set the diamond shape points, I linked to the web site to buy one and one of the comments said that the tool does not work on diamond points, is the one you use on the video the same one that I linked to amazon ?
    thanks frank

  47. Hi Scott.
    i forgot to ask about the tool that you are setting the diamond shaped glazing points, i linked to the amazon web site and
    one of the comments said that the tool does not work for setting diamond points, is the tool that you are using the exact same one that the amazon link shows ?

    1. Frank, I am using that same tool, but I had to modify it to make it work for diamond points. Using a bench grinder you can grind it down so that it fits diamond points. I’ll try to post some pictures soon.

  48. Hi Scott

    I am going to use the Sarco product on my glazing, I am re_glazing some old windows for an outdoor garden shed, which of the 2 Sarco products should I purchase ?
    Thanks for all your help and insight.

  49. hi scott
    thanks for a awesome video, I would
    like to acquire a gazing tool like the one you use can I get the name of the one that you are using ?

    thanks frank

  50. How warm does the temperature need to be for the Sarco glazing to set up properly? We need to reglaze a few panes in some French doors (stripped months ago, rehung, and being protected from the weather with storm doors.) But it has been such a cold winter. Can we do it now?

  51. Hi Scott, What a great video. I have insisted on saving the windows in our 1917 house much to the dismay of… everyone I have talked to. I was curious if you have any tips on removing the old glazing. I have broken many windows, including the large 30×40’s upstairs and it is breaking my heart. I really hate to just put new glazing over the old but I can’t’ keep breaking windows like this. I have tried heat gun at low setting. I have tried a clothing steamer with a director at the end fashioned out of a milk carton. I have tried just chiseling away with chisel, dremmel tool, and a similar tool that is powered with the air compressor so more powerful. It has been very cold outside with most of these attempts so perhaps the difference in the cold air and the heat tool would make it more likely to break? Thank you Lauren.

  52. Scott, any suggestions to where I can purchase plans and supplies( steam equipment) for a steam box? I’ve seen videos and it looks pretty cool. I have 13 – 6ft lower sashes …………. May be the best way to go for these large sashes

  53. I have 2 historic homes in Galveston Tx. Circa 1884 & 1887 so we’re talking LOTS of sash windows ! A great number of them in need of repair so the glass HAS to come out and most of them still have their original tin glass ,which having survived multiple hurricanes will probably continue to do so if I don’t break it ! Here lies my frustration….. I’ve tried it all, silent stripper, chemical, heat, My Dremmel uuuugh everything but it’s a 130 years of putty on putty, usually some caulk and lots of sloppy paint. Last week I had a 4’X4′ 2 light sash on my table and thought I try a different approach. With a sponge brush I applied boiled linseed oil along the old putty and window edge. I let it soak in for about 15 min ( the painted over putty was intact with no cracks but the sash was in need of repair) next I used my glass scraper with a new single edge razor and started work my edge around the glass to release the paint / caulk from the glass and BAMM the putty just started breaking off with it. In some areas the putty was a little more stubborn so with the razor I’d make little cuts along the wood edge and reapply more oil, wait, and again the putty just released from the wood. So excited I decided to time it from start to finish it took my 35 min to remove the putty, caulk , points and glass with no gouging to the frame ! In a 4’x2′ piece of glass that’s 12 linear feet of 130 plus years of junk out in minutes ! All with oil, window scraper, razor knife & sm pliers, I’m so jazzed I can’t tell you.

  54. Think I might have painted my dap33 glazing on s couple windows too soon. Do I need too scape it off or will it harden eventually?

    1. If the putty wasn’t skinned over enough before you painted then you probably got cracked paint. You can either remove the putty and start again or you can wait a bit longer and paint on top of what you already have. You might notice the cracking through the fresh paint but depending on the color it might not be too noticeable.

  55. Hi Scott,
    I am using the 3/8 glazing points since they hide better. I do not wish to buy a mechanical install tool for the points and am using the fletcher hand tool instead. However, those glazing points are all stuck together for use in the mechanical tool. They are VERY hard to separate. I experimented with the following and it works very well.
    1) Put 1/2 in water in stainless med or small pot on stove top.
    2) Put in the string of points.
    3) Bring to med boil for 3 minutes.
    4) Poke with a fork while in the hot water to break up the point string.
    5) Remove pot, drain water and slide the wet points onto a paper towel. Finish separation if needed.
    6) You will see a very slim clear plastic strip (what holds them together). Remove these pieces of plastic and simply lift the towel and slide the points into a container with a lid for future use.

  56. Hi Scott:

    WARNING TO ALL: This is an experiment. Try it at your own risk.

    I back and working on the last remaining sashes that need reglazing and think I have come upon something that you might want to experiment with.

    On most of the windows I waited until I was doing the final latex painting to tape the windows. But today I tried taping after cleaning and prior to the primer. Using the edge of the tape to define the glass corner of the bevel and aligning it with the wood edge beneath the glass. Once I had the glaze down and beveled properly, using the tape edge closest to the putty as a straight line guide, I was able to lift the excess putty more easily away from the tape with primer on its surface than can often be the case when lifting Multiglaze from clean glass.

    While I plan leaving the tape until after I apply the latex I lifted one piece to see how clean it would come up. I have a perfect putty edge and can just see the wood underneath the glass.

    Give this a try. You might be pleasantly surprised with how much easier it makes the process of getting a straight glaze line of the proper width. It surprised me.

  57. Scott, I order one gal. of the sarco dual glaz. It came two weeks ago I glaze my first set of windows I like to know what the skiming over looks like after 12 days it still some what soft.And does the glazing take stain thanks Ron.

  58. Christine:

    You probably won’t find Sarco Multi Glaze at the hardware store. But it will move your work forward faster and with less problems than the alternatives. Just remember that the putty does not dry overnight. in a few dys your get a crusting over of the surface that you can paint. But the putty will still be somewhat soft and require care in handling.

    Have fun. Restoration is always far more gratifying than the daunting task of it implies. Time and love are the most important investment.

  59. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! I am a woman who owns and is trying to restore an older(1920’s)cottage and I find it’s very hard to find good advice or anyone who knows anything about restoration. I just had a kid in a local hardware store try to tell me to use silicone caulk! He had no ideas what glazing putty or glazing points were! I obviously said NO to the silicone Ha Ha! I’m off to the big box store to find putty – I did buy Dap Window glazing and glazing points but the putty looks much better.

  60. Scott, thank you very much for your honest opinion and quik respones about sarco glazing I will order one 1/2 gal when in the next two days when i reglaz my windows i will have apiece of mind knowing that i made the right decision that my windows done right and last a long time. thanks again

  61. I owe an older home and about to start to refinish 18 windows in the house and garage I would like to know is sarco way better than dap 33 thank you.

    1. Ron, in my opinion Sarco putty is the way to go. It’s easier to work with and has a long history of time tested quality performance. It’s what they use on the White House’s windows!

  62. Blatant endorsement:

    Sarco Multi Glaze Type M.

    As a neophyte to glazing needing to fix 16 sets of double hung windows plus some smaller hinged windows in preparation for selling my house I started out with the Dapp 33 glazing putty from the local retailer. Ugh!

    In desperation I bought a gal. of Sarco Multi Glaze type-M. My first reaction: WOW! It does everything right that Dapp does wrong. Sure its messy on the hands but it can be scraped off with a putty knife and washed EASILY will Dawn dish detergent. (anyone doing house repair and rehab who is not willing to get your hands dirty should hire a professional to get their hands dirty for you and get the job done right.)

    Handling is a dream. My work time has been cut by 75% easily. The Dapp was a real pain for that first seal under the window pane. Type-M simply squeezes down to the needed amount without much pressure at all on the pane. The glaze holds on a fresh oil primer surface like its supposed to do. Working the glaze with a putty knife is like cutting butter at room temp.

    Dry down, in my case, is 3-4 days since I have an enclosed south facing porch that I can leave the sashes sit facing the sun. Anyone with an small room, an electric space heater and a fan can easily get a good crusted surface in days not weeks.

    Throw your Dapp 33 away and get the Sarco. No matter how many or how few windows you have to work on this will make it a world easier.

  63. Hi Scott:

    I’m down to rehanging my sashes with plans to replace cord with chain. In the first set the sashes are no longer holding in place with the chain. Its as if the sashes are now heavier than the weights. All of the weights, on this window, are the same weight. And I have tried to replace the retainer bead into the same positions. I’m tempted to add a couple of heavy washers onto the weight but I’d rather set them right rather than do a Rube Goldberg on them.

    Any ideas?

    1. Pat, I honestly don’t have too much experience with sash chains, but the weighting of the sashes should be the same unless you made modifications to the sash. Are you wanting to change from cords to chains for appearance?

      1. Both appearance and durability.

        The only change that I made was fresh putty and paint. And I oiled the pulleys.

        The next frame, that I just finished minutes ago, is traveling 100% the way it should. without oil on the pulleys. The problem window, I guess and hope, is just one of those freaky weird things that happens sometimes.

        The window I’m working now has a four ft. bottom and two ft. top sash. The weights were reversed back in history explaining why they never worked right.

        I’m selling this place and want to leave it in better condition than I bought it. The windows are being the challenge of a lifetime. Five different size sashes among sixteen boxes to rehab. Good practice for the house I am buying.

        Thanks for the reply Scott. An honest ‘no answer’ is better than your offering untried ideas.

  64. Water? I’ll have to try that. I am used to trying to leave a material in its original condition without adulteration until use.

    We’re on the same page about table work. Besides I have box repairs to do, paint buildup and wood, along with lead concerns. Everything open and accessible is the only way.

    I like that Dap worksheet mostly for the graphic.

    Thanks for verifying my plan of action.

    1. I would check about Dap and the water, but with traditional oil-based putties the water doesn’t mix with or “adulterate” the putty. It stays separate and then you pour it off the top when it’s ready for use again.

  65. As a glazing neophyte I found your video hugely helpful.

    My question is: once glazed and in that crusting off period can I rehang the shashes in the sun and exterior environment until painting? I have many sashes to do and I just can’t leave the house without windows.

    A couple of POI’s.

    I found a steam machine I purchased to remove wall paper to be very helpful in removing glaze in a potential lead paint situation. Caution needs to be used in using steam on wood. Finished or unfinished. It will though soften layers of paint nicely and wet keeping down dust.

    By default I am working with Dap 33 and found quickly that the trick is mental not material. Most tip pages, including Scott’s video, quickly pass over the pressure application aspect of applying putty. But if most folks are like me the perspective we first approach the putty from is as an adhesive. Its not. It is the compression of hard pressing the putty that results in it holding in place. (If applied to clean surfaces.)

    I’ve seen some pretty messy work from people trying to dilute the putty. Ugly.

    Finally, if I ever learn how to cut a straight line in putty I’ll be a happy camper.

    Thanks for the great video Scott!

    1. Pat, great point about the putty not being an adhesive. It does indeed firm steady pressure as you draw the knife across the putty to get a good seal.
      As for reinstalling the windows while the putty skins over, It depends what the manufacture of your particular putty says. I’m not sure about Dap33 but Sarco makes a dual-glaze putty which can be reinstalled and reacts well to ultraviolet light, however their multi glaze Type-M putty should only be used in the shop and needs to be painted before reinstalled. Hope that helps!

      1. A Dap 33 PDF I found answered my question. Windows should be hung and adjusted prior to applying the putty and installing the glass.

        More important to your readers, Dap has a cross section illustration in their PDF of the proper bedding of a piece of glass.

      2. One other POI about materials freshness. Once I open a tub of putty, or anything of the sort, I use some wax paper, aluminum foil or plastic pressed over the surface of the material to prevent air from drying the surface. Kind of like a floating lid on a large liquids container where evaporation is an issue.

        1. Pat, we typically store our putty (Sarco) with water on top to make sure there are no air pockets. You might wanna give it a shot.
          Also, as far as reinstalling the windows prior to puttying I wouldn’t do that. It is much easier to glaze a sash laying flat on a table. You can do it in place, but glazing on a table will yield faster, more consistent results.

  66. Great details about reglazing, but you don’t really write or talk about how to get the glazing off without breaking the glass. The infrared paint removers use low heat and soften the glazing so you don’t have to hack at it with a regular chisel. I didn’t like the Silent Paint Remover. I had quality problems with it after my first year. Check for other infrared paint removers and find the one that is UL-certified for quality. Some are more expensive but worth it for better durability

  67. I just noticed another difference between the way I have been doing it and the way Scott recommends. For a long time I was just painting glazing compound with two coats of a quality exterior latex paint. I never noticed a problem, but I changed awhile ago to priming the putty with an oil based primer before I painted it. I changed after I noticed that priming was recommended by the Dap 33 instructions. Maybe not needing to be primed is an advantage of the Sarco Putty?

    1. Sarco recommends NOT priming their putty. It’s hard for me to feel comfortable doing that, but sticking with manufacturer’s recommendations is almost always the safest route.

  68. I am sure I have much less experience than Scott does, but I have repaired and reglazed more than 100 windows and through trial an error have mostly come to do it about the way Scott does. The differences:

    1. I use Dap 33. I just started out using this because this is what the home centers carry. I’ve never used anything else and maybe what Scott recommends is better. It sounds like Dap 33 requires a little less set up time than the Sarco putty which is a good thing from my point of view but beyond that I don’t know why one product versus the other.

    2. I use Dap glazing compound in a tube for the bedding. I use this instead of Dap 33 because it goes down faster and is easier to squash flat when you install the glass. I don’t think it works very well for the window glazing itself because it sags and in general just looks kind of ugly in time.

    3. I use a two handed technique with the putty knife. I use one hand to hold the knife steady against the frame and a second to drag the putty knife along.

    4. I use the points with the bent up edge. Sometimes they are just barely covered by the glazing compound, but at least on occasion somebody as cut the old glass a little on the small side and if they were any smaller I’d need to get new glass.

    5. I’ve been making the glazing compound bevel end as close as possible to the edge of the inside rabbet. I think I’m going to go with Scott on this. I’m going to start making the bevel a little more narrow.

    6. I clean up the oil from the glazing compound on the window with whiting. This allows me to make the window mostly clean while I wait for the glazing compound to set up so the window can be painted and cleaned. Maybe the Sarco Putty is less messy to install than the Dap 33 and doesn’t leave the window with oily smears the way Dap 33 does?

    1. Just poking around the site a little bit more I stumbled on the tip about using plaster instead of whiting. That sounds like a great idea. I have to make a special trip to get whiting but I always have plaster lying around and it is much cheaper as you said.

    2. Dave, thanks for all the comments! It sounds like we do about the same thing with our windows.

      I tried the DAP 33 at first and liked it too the main reason I switched for a couple reasons.

      1) When restoring old windows I would come across some that were redone only a decade or two ago with DAP. The DAP was chalky and crumbling. I didn’t like its lack of flexibility after such a short period.

      2) Several other window restoration companies I know where using Sarco or similar products and they didn’t like DAP. I figured if it’s what the pros are doing then I should look into it.

      3) Sarco’s putty is the closest in formulation to what they used back in the day and that putty lasted 70 years in some cases. I want those results.

      4) We do use the larger glazier’s points occasionally if the rabbet is big enough and, like you said, if the glass is a bit too small for the frame.

  69. Those are good tips. I’ve found it is sometimes tricky to remove the old putty, especially on larger panes of glass. My glass supplier shared a great tip: Don’t try to remove old putty in sun or in hot temperatures, but instead do the work in shade and early or late in the day. The old glass is more likely to break in the hot sun. Obviously if you remove the old sash then you can work indoors, but for a picture window sometimes you don’t have that option. It can be heartbreaking to crack a large pane of wavy glass!

    1. Jack, that is a good tip, thanks for sharing it. Yeah, I don’t mind breaking a couple small panes but when you break 30″ or 40″ window it kills me.

      We’re building our own steam cabinet now and looking forward to trying it out because stubborn putty is the easiest way to break windows.

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