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The Easiest Way to Measure Sash Cord

The Easiest Way to Measure Sash CordThis week’s Ask The Craftsman question comes from Mark.

“I want to replace some missing ropes on my home’s original windows. How do I measure the right length rope for double-hung windows?”

Mark, I try to avoid breaking out the tape measure as much as possible and this is one of those times you can avoid it as well. Here is a quick and easy trick I learned from my friend Steve Quillian at Wood Window Makeover.

Take one end of your sash cord and place it at the top of the pulley on the jamb you are wanting to re-rope. Holding that in place, run the rope down to the window sill. Mark that length with your finger and cut the rope right there.

And that is how to measure sash cord!

Knot one end and run the other end through the pulley down into the weight pocket and you should have enough rope to tie off the weight properly.

Important Disclaimer!

This measuring trick does not work on short windows. Typically any window shorter than about 3 ft tall will require a few extra inches added to the rope.

If you have a short window measure like I mentioned and add at least 3-4 inches to the rope. You can always trim off a little extra once the weights are tied off.

For more info on roping windows see my earlier post How To: Re-Rope Old Windows

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6 thoughts on “The Easiest Way to Measure Sash Cord

    1. Excellent suggestion. Was wasting much time trying to find out how to measure that rope and finally thank god stumbled on your site. Worked like a charm for my 40″ vertical windows.

  1. My wood Windows Double hung operated by spring, recently removed for New paint,damage glass, new glazing and paint,to reinstall the springs is a problem can hold the sash up.I like some advise please. Thanks

  2. thanks for all your helpful hints and tricks.
    I’m wondering what you think of using foam insulation underneath floors. Open cell or closed cell? etc. I live in SW Louisiana in Lafayette and it can be very moist here. My house is 85 years old, balloon frame construction, cypress siding and beams. There is some termite damage that has been there since I bought the house in 2005, but no new termites. As I work on the house I find lots of places there is damage that I didn’t know about when I bought it, pretty well hidden. (A better inspection would have helped me a lot! but I trusted the inspector, oops.) So high moisture and termites are my main concerns keeping me from foaming the floors. I’m on pillars about 3 feet high off the ground which makes a pretty workable crawspace. In winter, as the house has cement openings all around the crawspace I close it up with rigid foam board which I remove around March 15 till Nov 1st, this helps make the house much warmer in winter but is a pain to do. The foaming concerns me as to how to detect any future termites etc. in addition to moisture problems that it might cause. Thanks

    1. Spray foam is the best insulator and air sealer but it does make it harder to detect and deal with termites and moisture problems. With those concerns in mind I would probably use rock wool or denim batts to insulate between the floors joists. I’d also advise against completely sealing up your crawlspace for any amount of time. That can cause big moisture problems since the crawlspace requires regular air flow.

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