As I write this post about oil-based paint, I realize that the information is quickly disappearing from both common knowledge and usefulness today. If you live in California, I don’t even think you’re allowed to buy oil-based paint anymore (at least not in any significant quantities).
The landscape of house painting has been changing ever since water-based paints were first introduced by Sherwin-Williams in 1941. Kem-Tone, as it was called proved that water-based paints were a possibility. And it’s no secret that water-based, or latex paints, are easier to work with, better for the environment, and longer lasting than most oil paints. But there is still a place for them paint today. And if you live in an old house, knowing how to work with oil is almost a requirement.
What You Need To Know About Oil-Based Paint
Slow-Drying – This paint is notoriously slow drying and the reason we have the saying “It’s like waiting for paint to dry.” Most oil paints takes about 8 hrs to dry enough to recoat, as opposed to latex paint which takes around 4 hrs to recoat. This may sound like a problem at first, as it definitely slows down the whole process. But this slow drying allows the paint to flow out better and provide a smoother finish than latex paint. This slow process allows brush marks to level out remarkably well.
Good Ventilation – If you’re working with oil-based paint you need better ventilation than you do with latex paint. Make sure to open windows and put a fan in the doorway to pull in fresh air. They usually have a much higher VOC content than latex paints, which is why the extra ventilation is needed.
Yellows in Dark Areas – If you have old oil-based paint on your closet’s baseboards, chances are it’s pretty yellow. Light colored oil paints are notorious for yellowing with age and in dark areas. The more sunlight it gets, the less it yellows. If exposed to more sunlight, the yellowing will fade away though, and though today’s paints have gotten better about holding their color, it’s still a problem.
Can Be Mildew Prone – When used outside, oil-based paint has a tendency to mildew. This is especially prevalent in varieties that contain larger quantities of linseed oil.
You Need a Specific Brush – Different paints require a different brush. There are some brushes that work with both latex and oil, but natural bristle brushes work much better with oil-based paints. It’s important to pick the right paint brush. They will usually say “For Oil-based Paints” on the brush holder.
Hard Finish – One of the qualities of oil paints that manufacturers have struggled to create with latex paint is a hard durable finish on enamel paints. Nothing beats the hard, durable finish of an oil-based enamel paint. And that hard finish makes it an excellent choice for doors and windows because that hard finish eliminates the sticking that often happens with latex paints. The hard finish also unfortunately prevents the paint from being as flexible as latex, which is why old oil-based paints begin to crack and chip off. Temperature swings and expansion of the surface eventually breaks the harder paint film of an oil-based paint.
Difficult Clean Up – If you’re painting with an oil-based paint, the clean up is a bit more involved. Oil-based paint is pretty much impervious to water, so you’ll have to use paint thinner or mineral spirits to clean your brushes. Here’s some tips for using mineral spirits:
- Make sure the area is well-ventilated.
- Pour some into a bowl and vigorously mix your brush for about a minute.
- Pour the used portion into a sealable metal container.
- Repeat this process until the mineral spirits comes out clear and the brush is clean.
- Dispose of the used thinner or mineral spirits at your landfill’s hazardous waste drop off.
And there is one last thing you need to know about oil vs water based paints . . .They don’t mix! I would think it’s obvious to most people that mixing a can of oil-based paint with a can of water-based paint wouldn’t be a good idea, but I’m talking about something else here.
If you are painting oil-based paint on top of latex paint then you have to prime the latex first. Latex paint and oil-based paint expand and contract at two different rates. So, if you paint oil-based paint on top of a latex paint without priming first, the latex will flex so much underneath that the oil-paint will quickly fail.
You can get away with painting a latex paint on top of an oil-based paint without primer, but just to be safe, it’s always a good idea to prime first when you are switching from one type of paint to the other.
Hopefully, this has been a good “primer” (<—Sorry, I couldn’t resist the painter humor) for working with oil-based paint. If you have any tips I may have forgotten, please share them in the comments below.
Founder & Editor-in-Chief
I love old houses, working with my hands, and teaching others the excitment of doing it yourself! Everything is teachable if you only give it the chance.
I’m confused! Painted new front door with exterior acrylic now need to repaint door facing that has been painted with enamel. What prep should I do to the door facing before I paint the facing with the exterior acrylic?
Hello,
Do you have any recommendations to cover/seal Creosote on my subfloor? I purchased Behr Floor and Porch oil based paint, but I’m second guessing this decision.
The floor is clearly oily and I’d like to cover this nasty chemical.
I will also need to finish up my project with latex paint due to a technique I plan to apply.
Please help!
Thank you
I should also mention I have an EPDM membrane under this deck which is situated and a second level above a 1st floor porch.
I have a two story deck that has never been stained or painted. It’s been over 2 years and was growing mold and mildew. I sprayed and pressure washed everything using a combination of bleach, water, and an alkaline solution called “The Brown Stuff”.
I can’t say that all of the mold and mildew spots are gone as lighter black dots or spots continue after I sprayed and washed twice. My plan is to use B. Moore oil based primer, followed by latex porch paint on the deck surface, latex semi gloss satin paint on the railings, posts, & pergola, and Silken latex stain on the siding that was pre primed with oil-based primer.
Please advise me what are the best / most efficient steps to take to provide the longest lasting, less maintenance solution to my dilemma. I’m considering using the product copper coat before any more priming.
My son wants to have a tagging birthday party with all his friends. We are redoing his room which has wallpaper currently. We plan on using an oil base paint to paint over the wall paper. Will the spray paint stick to the oil base paint?
My kitchen cabinets were painted black with a top oil-based paint 7-8 years ago. The job was well-done: sanded, primed, painted. At this point, around the pulls and on some corners, the black paint has rubbed off. I will touch up the black paint, but I am wondering if I should put a finish over the paint after it cures so that it lasts longer. Thank you.
Hello Scott, I want to paint my daughters closet doors with a chalkboard paint. Her closet was painted many years ago with an oil based paint. I don’t want to sand it, and am hoping a primer will do the trick? I painted my oil based bathroom a while ago, primed it first, then painted, and I can scrape it off with my fingernail. I used what the salesperson recommended at the paint store, but obviously it didn’t work. I’d like to avoid this on her closet doors! She’ll be using chalk markers, (not traditional chalk), which requires a damp cloth to remove. What do you recommend?
Lorna, a light sanding followed by an oil-based primer is the best way to ensure that your finish paint will stay for the long haul. It may be a little extra effort but it always pays off in the end.
I’m currently painting the radiators in my 1922 brownstone. I’ve scraped, sanded, and cleaned them and have done one coat of oil primer. Should I sand with 220 before starting my top coat or is that unnecessary when painting metal? Also, can I wrap my oil brush in plastic until the next day when I apply more coats or should I be cleaning after every coat with mineral spirits? Thanks in advance!
Bernard, I would sand with 220 just to make sure everything is smooth before the final coats. Also, yes, you can wrap the brush in plastic overnight.
We installed several new “primed” replacement Anderson wood casement windows. We painted them with an exterior latex paint with primer. Now the windows won’t close completely. I think that maybe the wood swelled due to humidity and rain. I think that maybe we should have used an oil-based primer. Do you think that is what happened? Is there any way to fix it at this point? Thanks so much for any input you can provide.
Julie it might be swelling or it might also be from the latex paint which can cause the windows to stick in place and be difficult to operate. Try sanding a little and waxing the any parts of the window that rub.
I’ll give that a try. Thanks!
I am about halfway through a kitchen cabinet re-do with oil based paints. I submitted a previous comment in April and asked you a few questions then (I’ve gotten quite distracted with other projects and am a notorious procrastinator). I primed my laminate cabinets with zinsser and now have done 1 coat of oil based paint on each of the cabinets. I am noticing that my brush stroke marks are significant and noticeable. I was wondering if you thought that using a foam applicator for the remaining coats would solve the issue, and if not, what would? Also, how many coats of the oil based paint do you think will be sufficient for kitchen cabinetry?
Emily, 2 coats should be more than sufficient. Try the tips in this post to get rid of those brush marks: https://thecraftsmanblog.com/6-secrets-to-silky-smooth-paint/
Question?new ceiling in small bath. Primed with KILZ 2.do I need to reprime for oil base paint or have I gone to far?
Kilz 2 should do the trick!
Hello everyone.Just one question. If I use oil primer to paint my chairs and table dinner. Witch kind of paint should be use. Latex??
Thanks!!!
Paul, you can use oil or latex over top of oil primer. Oil based paint will help prevent things from sticking to it so I would use it in your case.
We’re painting cabinets using oil based enamel over old stain which has been sanded. Is mineral spirits best to use to remove any residue and can paint be applied soon after? Also after painting when is the best time to remove edge tape to prevent any peeling of paint? Thanks.
Trish, mineral spirits is great for this. Removing tape is best when the paint is still wet IMHO. No chance of peeling.
I have some beutiful built-in cabinets in my bathroom. The problem is that prior to me buying my house someone spray painted white (prob latex paint) over the origonal oild based paint. I recently hoping the white paint would act as a primer painted pver top of these cabinets, now the paint is just peeling off.
Do you have any suggestions? Do I need to strip them? Or. Can I peel away whatever paint is coming off, prime and start again?
Thank you for any imput, I would really like to have these for many years to come.
It depends on how bad the paint is right now. For the longest lasting paint job I would strip it down and prime with an oil based primer and a couple coats of oil-based paint. You may be able to get away with just sanding the paint smooth and then priming if it isn’t coming off in sheets.
Hi Scott,
A so called painter put Coranado Polyurethane Rust Scat[rust prevenitive coating] Enamel on textured hollow core interior doors[not metal doors] and wood casings around doors. The odor is intense. I am wondering if I can cover with a semi gloss oil base and what the procedure should be? Please help Thanks!!!
Tim I’d call the manufacturer and see what they recommend.
We’re the process of restoring an 1860 brick farmhouse in PA. Our plan is to use traditional linseed oil paint (Allback) on the trim both inside and out. Outside first applying raw linseed oil to help restore the old dried wood. Do you have any experience/advice for us?
I haven’t used Allback much but I am currently testing some here. May have to let you know more in the future.
We’re having all running trim and millwork in our home painted with a dark bronze oil based satin paint after minimal sanding over white oil based existing paint. The supposedly low sheen paint is turning out a high gloss with far too much reflection and blemish revelation. Is there any way to prevent the higher gloss look or is it possible the paint was mixed incorrectly?
Keith depending on the brand of paint you’re using oil-based enamels often dry to a high gloss finish and take about a week to reach their satin sheen. If it’s been longer than a week you’ll likely need to repaint with a new sheen. Test it first to make sure.
I have recently stepped into a painting nightmare. We bought our house and are wanting to repaint our trim (its a dark almond, I prefer WHTIE).
Here is what I have done:
– “tested” to see if I have oil or latex. I used both “goof off” and rubbing alcohol and with both I was able to remove paint from my trim.
– After thinking my trim was latex I bought Sherwin Williams Harmony paint. I did not sand the trim only painted it. And yes it did fail and will come off easily with my fingernail.
– Next I bought Sherwin Williams Pro Classic, which was suppose to have high adhesion. Again I just applied paint. It too in places has failed and will peel off easily with my nails.
– Then, feeling frustrated I contacted a painter to get a quote to have ALL of my doors and trim painted. The painter felt that the trim was oil based. (he did this based on look and touch)
– Finally I went back and purchased an oil based primer (pro block), then followed up with the Pro Classic trim paint
I have tested this in 3 areas. 1 out of the three had good adhesion. the others were hit and miss.
What can I do to avoid sanding the trim and doors? should I try the primer then paint route again?
Truly I am at my wits end with this trim painting project.
Forgot to mention I would prefer to use Latex Paint. The Pro Classic and Harmony I bought were both latex as well.
Just wiping with liquid deglosser before painting (whether it is over oil or latex) you won’t have to sand or scrape!!! It will not chip or peel. I have been refinishing furniture and trim for years deglosser has saved me a LOT of time throughout the years. You do have to get it from a hardware or paint store. You will not find at Walmart or target. Hope this helps!!
Hi. I’m painting a wooden boat with oil based paint. We have a lot of problems with chipping because of boaty stuff. I’m considering, instead of using wood primer, doing a first coat of paint thinned with 3 parts boiled linseed oil for good penetration, then a second coat with less oil, and a top coat of straight paint. Do you have any experience with this? I’m particularly worried about drying time.
I don’t have much experience with Boats, but your ideas sound intriguing. Can’t tell you how it would work though.
Anything painted by the ocean is all ways a maintenance issue. If you’ve allready primed the surface, coating it with boiled linseed oil is only going to cause topcoat adhesion problems because the linseed oil will only stay on the surface, not soak in and take for ever to dry. Sand your primer to give “tooth” , tack it and apply your finish coats thinned no more than one part thinner to three parts finish.Sand between coats and make sure the prior coats are dry prior to finish.Check it by dragging your fingernails across it or putting some masking tape on the surface and pulling it off. Moisture in the air will cause problems with drying, adhesion and flattening especially on horizontal surfaces so work with the weather.Be prepared for the maintenance because you’ll be touching up once a year.
Hi painted two small bookshelves with oil based paint in hope to achieve the high gloss finish… its hasn’t been 24 hours but the paint looks very messy and its not settling or reducing the appearance of brush strokes like a imagined. Should I recoat? Sand it down a bit? Wait the full 24 hours and then decide? I’ve got to save these bookshelves.. please advice!
Brittney, wait a full 24 hrs and then you can make the decision. You may have to sand smooth and add another coat. Try adding some Penetrol to help thin the paint and let it flow out better. Also make sure you are using a quality brush and not brushing to much.
Did you use an oil primer? Did you sand first to at least 120? Did you sand between the 2 coats of primer and again to 180 or above and clean the dust off before painting? Did you sand w/220 and clean the dust off before the next coat? Did you use the correst brush and methods of tipping off, etc. and use a good quality paint, not the most “popular” brand? Then it should be just how you wanted it to be!
We have a house built in the 1940’s that has cedar tongue and groove board that have had linsee oil applied to them. The board are really dark making the house really dark. We would like to white wash the boards. when we went into a paint store, the indicated we could not do that. Would live your advice on how we can white wash these walls.
Randi, as long as the linseed oil is old and been on longer than a month you can definitely paint over it. To white wash it try diluting some white paint with water brushing it on and then immediately wiping off the excess. Good luck!
What a relief. You’re first to say I can paint on top of old linseed oil! Your comment was for someone wanting to whitewash. I have a treated peacock chair so I’d probably gold wash. What type of paint and what ratio to dilute with water, please?
I was on the verge of simply dry brushing the chair until I read your comment.
Am so excited. Please provide needed details. Thanks very much!
Katrina, do some testing to find the right look you want in terms of dilution ratios and use a cheap flat paint.