My wife and I, like most all old home owners, are fans of a lot of the restoration themed DIY shows these days. Rehab Addict, Restored, and, of course, Fixer Upper.
Their designs and passion to keep original elements of old houses is so rare in the renovation game that I can’t help but root for them to succeed. I miss the show already!
One of my favorite shows is definitely Fixer Upper. Partly because I’m from Texas, and partly because Joanna and Chip are such a trip to watch. They even have a book, The Magnolia Story, telling all about their story. Her designs are almost always stunning, but she does have a real addiction to what she calls “shiplap.”
The only problem is that rarely is the wood she calls shiplap actually shiplap! Not that you can tell on the television screen. I’ve noticed my clients recently asking about shiplap, if their house has it, or can they incorporate it somehow. And I always have to ask “Do you watch Fixer Upper?”
If the answer comes back yes (which it usually does) then my next question is usually, “Do you want actual shiplap or do you just want wood paneling?” This query often brings a cock of the head and a quizzical look. “Aren’t they the same?”
Don’t get me wrong, Joanna, I love your show and really don’t think you need to change a thing. You do enough for historic preservation that all of us in the field should be grateful.
I don’t actually think that you aren’t aware of what shiplap is. I think it’s more of a generalization that is happening much like a lot of people do. Much like a lot of folks call any sparkling white wine champagne when it’s not really champagne unless it’s French.
That may sound snooty, but it’s not my intention. I just want to make sure people know what shiplap actually is and what it isn’t.
What is NOT Shiplap?
It’s Not Sheathing
This is usually what Joanna calls shiplap and where I start to yell at the TV.
It is not plain wooden boards nailed on a wall. Often in old houses, these boards can be found on the exterior of the framing just beneath the siding.
Today, we frame a house and then install plywood sheathing to tighten the frame and help square everything up prior to putting on the siding and interior wall coverings. In the days before plywood, we used 1×6 or 1×8 boards, sometimes installed on a diagonal or horizontally as both sheathing and subfloor.
These boards can be salvaged and reused as paneling or other creative design uses since they can add a lot of rich character, but they are not shiplap. They’re just plain old wood boards.
It’s Not Tongue & Groove
Sadly, it’s not this one either. Tongue and groove boards are used in all different places in old homes and most of us have heard the phrase at one time or another. Flooring is of course the most common tongue and groove you’ll encounter, but there is a lot of siding that is tongue and groove as well.
Tongue and groove (or T&G) is just what it sounds like. One side of the board has a groove and the other side has a tongue. When they are installed side by side, they fit together nice and snug, which strengthens the floor or siding.
What Is Shiplap?
Shiplap is a 1x board that has a special rabbet or notch cut on the edges of the board in an alternating fashion. These rabbets allow the boards, when installed horizontally, to self-space themselves and keep water from getting behind them because they fit so perfectly.
Shiplap is mostly found in siding designs because of the need for consistent spacing and water tightness, but it can be found in other places. The lapped joint is one of the simplest you can use to accomplish the spacing and prevent water intrusion, which is why shiplap was and is so popular.
Once installed, shiplap can look just like regular wood boards because the rabbets are hidden, so yes, it can be hard to tell it apart from regular sheathing boards to even a trained eye, but it is different.
There are various profiles of siding available in shiplap too. Sometimes it’s just flat shiplap boards and other times you can find profiles like Novelty Drop, Dolly Varden, or the poorly named but still attractive #117 lap siding.
For the purist, shiplap is the original flat profile with a rabbet on top and bottom. Chip explains it in the video below so we know they are on the level about shiplap even if a few random styles get thrown in with all that Texas shiplap.
As long as she doesn’t start proclaiming that they come from the shiplap tree, I’m still a fan.
If you are having trouble finding the real stuff in your area, you can easily make your own shiplap with this quick tutorial. If you’re one of the lucky ones to have true shiplap in your house and you just need help repairing it, read my post The 7 Best Products to Patch Wood.
Designing With Shiplap
There are so many ways to incorporate shiplap into your home projects and almost all of them are attractive. Whether you use weathered natural wood or want a more clean painted look, a wood covered wall makes any room feel warmer.
Here are some of my favorite designs using shiplap from Houzz to give you a little inspiration for your home.
Pittsboro Residence Farmhouse Entry
Bastrop County Plantation House Farmhouse Bedroom
Founder & Editor-in-Chief
I love old houses, working with my hands, and teaching others the excitment of doing it yourself! Everything is teachable if you only give it the chance.
Hi Scott! Thank you, this inaccuracy makes me nuts, despite my love for the Gaines and their show! Anyway, which of the three – shiplap, tongue and groove, or flat-profile wood paneling – would you recommend for installation in a vaulted ceiling?
Probably tongue and groove for consistency sake. It will hide movement of the wood better than the rest.
Why is it called ‘shiplap’? Where’d the ship come in to the equation? I get the ‘lap’ part, because it overlaps, but ship?
Jen, I honestly don’t know if it was used in ships or if that’s how it go it’s name.
It was used on ships. I believe one tongue was cut longer than the other so there was a backed gap between the boards. This allowed asphaltic (or something similar water repellent) impregnated rope caulking to be tight fit into the joint – water proofing it.
Having lived in quite a few coastal towns on the West coast. The history of shiplap used in houses is that it was salvaged boat wood from the board yards and wrecks around seaports. The whole inside of my very old house living room is cedar shiplap with dovetail corners which turns a very nice burnt orange at sunset on the west-facing windows. You only find the real stuff in very old houses.
We just had true shiplap installed on several walls of our new build. I was so excited about it but when I went to look at them after, the spacing between boards was completely uneven. Some boards were overlapping or right up next to each other with absolutely no spacing and some had gaps of various sizes. It looked very poorly done and had no “flow” to it. I had been looking at “shiplap” and dreaming about it for over a year. Everything I saw, even on true shiplap had a fairly even small spaced look between boards. I’ve seen many people use coins or thin spacers when installing. I’ve never seen it look like what our builder did. He told me that is how he always does it. When I expressed my displeasure, he said, 1) it was my fault for not telling him how I wanted it (I never knew there was any other way installing it than having fairly even gaps between boards and HE never asked so I assumed he knew how shiplap looked 2) coins or spacers can’t be used when installing “real shiplap” only fake shiplap 3) if we did even gaps, it would eventually look bad because they would become bigger gaps because the boards will shrink (they are pine). He refused to change it unless we paid for all labor/materials again. And we ate out of budget…So, now I can’t sleep at night and the part of my house I was most excited for, I now want to cry about. Can you give us any helpful advice about how to salvage our walls? Will the boards shrink so I will maybe have some gapping that creates the shiplap look I was hoping for? Painters are in tomorrow and will be painting them white and I really need a shiplap doctor…
New pine boards will shrink in time (a few months). It also depends on when they were installed. If the weather is cold and dry and you have no gaps then the wood will only get tighter in the summer when temps and humidity rise.
It’s tough when there is a misunderstanding like you have. The only advice I would give you is next time if you have a specific design or look you want make it abundantly clear to the contractor other wise they are trying to guess what you want. I really hope the boards shrink up a bit and get you closer to the look you want!
You dont need spacers on real shiplap. My question is did you actually see the material before it was installed? Are you sure they’re telling the truth about what they installed?
Sure glad I did my reading or I’d be in ur position right now! Didn’t do ur research, that’s too bad. Yes, it is ur fault, but u can fix it. N it will look beautiful. Have patience n help others.
Good grief! I would have it totally redone, but not by THAT contractor. You could probably even do it better yourself.
I know money is tight, but, take it from me, the misery you will feel looking at that botched mess, over the years, will be overwhelming.
A GOOD contractor would have discussed the process with you before hand AND shown you a small work-up of the finished job.
When having a job like this done, ALWAYS have sketches or photos of the look you desire. If possible, make a small work-up yourself so that they are VERY clear as to your wishes.
Also check in periodically to assess their work. (This does not mean pester constantly) This particular contractor tho, I would have checked on often, by you or a friend, or even an inspector.
On an aside: How your materials are stored before installing them, can be a great determiner of how they will work out. But your contractor would know this and should work accordingly.
I am so sorry for your misfortunes, in this matter. I hope it will be a lesson for the future, for you and for others. I have also learned the hard way!
1. ALL siding should be installed with even spacing. A recent issue of THIS OLD HOUSE magazine even had an old siding spacer shown and described. So your contractor was an idiot to think that he could put up wood in a random fashion.
2. Contrary to what Mr. Sidler said on March 4, shiplap is not self-spacing. If you butt each board completely up against the other, that is simply fitting the boards together; that is not spacing them. To space them, use spacers, as you were saying; and the amount of space is called the “reveal”–meaning how much of the rabbet lap is showing from back between the faces of the boards. Obviously, you can’t have a reveal width that is wider than the rabbet width. So your contractor was doubly an idiot when he said that spacers couldn’t be used on real shiplap.
Fix it yourself. Carefully pry all of your boards off, remove the nails, and put the boards up the right way–spaced evenly, with the amount of reveal that you want between the boards. Then repaint the whole thing. It’ll take you several days of work, but you’ll be glad that you did it.
Hey Scott. I am installing true shiplap on an interior wall and have two questions. Should I work from top to bottom or bottom to top and will that dictate how the rabbets line up? Also, should the rabbet on top be open to the room?
Thanks and great article.
Greg, always start bottom and work your way up. Hiding the rabbet was never an issue in layout originally since it as usually hidden, but you can install a board without a a top rabbet or trim the rabbet off if you plan your layout properly.
Can anyone help me regarding painting stained shiplap. I have true ship lap vertical boards that are stained brown and would like to paint white. I am concerned regarding seams treatment e.g. Do I ensure seam lines can be seen continuously or they may have paint drip and and show broken lines or do you let it go randomly. I imagine spray paint vs brush and roller may give different results also kilz type paint first or not?
Anyone use a pickle type wash effect e.g. Knots etc kingd of fade through.
In short anyone have a link or methodology for paint methods of older shiplap.
thanks kindly
You’re in a pickle, about pickling! (Sorry, just had to say it). Since wood is has a dark stain, you really can’t do a true “pickling, which is nothing more than a very thin whitewash. That’s done on a raw light oak, pine, cedar, etc.
However, you certainly can simulate a whitewash or aged effect, using the brown color, as a base. This method will save a lot of time (IF YOU LIKE THE LOOK OF AGED WOOD).
Just take latex paints in white & gray, and water them down (3 pts water to 1 part paint). then WASH your wood with these paints. There are good video tutorials, to help, if needed.
Use a paint brush (not sprayer) to paint boards…and, use a dry brush to remove paint drips, between spaces between your boards. It will look great.
Wouldn’t true shiplap look strange if installed vertically?
Strange no but it’s definitely different style.
Scott,
Just curious as to why you would start at the bottom? The bottom would be hid by furniture ect. Wouldn’t you want your starter at the top so that you can get a full width to help with the over all visual appeal? Just asking, when I get the opportunity I wanna do a great room just side walls.
Plan your layout so that you can have a full clean board at the top but begin installation from the bottom. Siding is almost always installed from the bottom up.
The comments on this blog are nothing more than envy and jealousy for the Gaines’s success.
I am not a building or wood expert so the true exact nature of every wood they find in their renovations is both minute’ and irrelevant to the show. The wood she finds is a nice stichk, but the success of the show revolves around their work ethic and their relationship to each other and their “no drama” clients; other HGTV shows should give that a try.
I’m sorry you feel that way Joe, but you couldn’t be more wrong. I have nothing but appreciation for the Gaines’ and the spotlight they have shined on the restoration industry. They do great work and seem to be great people (though I have never met them).
You misunderstood the piece which is meant as an homage to them. Just because she mistakenly calls things shiplap that aren’t doesn’t equate to jealousy or envy.
Exactly.
Oh come on Joe…I like the show as well but every other word out of Joanna’s mouth is SHIPLAP…the article was spot on and answered my questions as well!!! I laughed when I spotted the heading because I mentioned the very same thing to my husband after watching a show yesterday…don’t be so sensitive and naive!!!
I just found this article because Joanna was confusing me on what shiplap was too…I laughed as well but not offended or put off. I just need to know the correct technique to do a wall in my house. What she is calling “shiplap” is actually “planking” of sorts. I prefer the planking look and got lots of useful tips from this thread. Thanks!!
Her show is refreshing and Magnolia Market at the Silos with Bakery…sweet!
Scott clearly stated in the article that he wasn’t picking on the Gaines’ and was just clarifying what shiplap really is. He complimented Chip and Joanna and stated he appreciates their restoration work. It appears you read the article through a clouded lens and didn’t really read everything.
What type of wood was common to use for shiplap in the early 1900s
There are regional differences in 1900 but the most popular was probably pine.
Don’t put a nail in my head scott lol I think the clients sometimes don’t have it in the budget so she tries to give them the look verses the rabbit cut. Im doing real shiplap with pine and a dado blade! i have a youtube channel ”chet langford” and will be showing this. Im doing all the work from electric, framing roofing, drywall, flooring, block, concrete! im 3 yrs in but its hard when you ”pay as you go” verses i have the money lol but its fun and it will pay off. You are right about how she uses her words! but i have seen her use real shiplap in the episode the barn house! I do agree with restoring the old shiplap from skilled ship carpenters put back into the 20th century, they are a forever look that will never die out! happy new year to you and your family!
Awesome Chet! Hope the project goes well.
Great article. My husband and I just remodeled with real shiplap. Our problem was in spacing. He is a contractor that has been installing ship lap with “Fixer Upper” spacing and I’m a realist that knows those spaces would collect dust on our dirt road and I also believe that panel look won’t be popular in 5-10 years. I won that argument and couldn’t be happier.
Tab, I have no doubt you won the argument. Wives have a tendency to do that. 😉
So, forgive me for being dense, but does that mean you installed real shiplap and did not put an extra space in it? I need very clear instructions as I am a novice.
Thanks!
Shiplap is self spacing. You set one piece above the next and then nail in place.
Recently bought a 16′ x 20′ river cottage that needs full renovation and thinking shiplap on entire interior. Because this is 3-season use-only with chance of flooding (and it has flooded in the past), there is no insulation and shiplap will install directly on studs. I want to minimize cost by using plywood cut into strips at home improvement store. I have a table saw and can cut rabbets to make true shiplap but don’t know if that will work for plywood and if so, what is the minimum thickness of plywood I should get. Any advice?
I think using common 1×6 or 1×8 pine boards would be a pretty economical and much easier way to go. Cutting the rabbets into them on the table saw wouldn’t be hard either like you said.
Scott – Thanks for the answer but just not economical enough. This cottage is not meant to be high-end and my original thought was to install full sheets of sanded exterior plywood with batten boards across seams. But then I thought that I could kick in a little more labor to give my wife the shiplap look plus thinking that shiplap would help with expected wood movement due to the no-heat, no insulation, and humidity caused by being right on (and even over) the river. Was also thinking to have 12″ wide boards because all walls will be shiplapped and afraid that 6″ or 8″ boards will look too busy. This would minimize the tablesaw work.
Is it possible to put “shiplap” or wood siding successfully over old plaster walls? If so, how? A nail gun wouldn’t do it, would it?
I would use a 16 or 15 ga nail gun with 2 1/2″ nails at every stud. Should work fine as long as you find the studs.
https://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-find-studs-in-a-plaster-wall/
What if your plaster is directly on top of brick? Our 1868 farmhouse has a solid brick exterior and the bathroom we plan to do shiplap in two of the four walls are plaster on brick. What would you suggest in this case? Liquid nails? Seems a bit…unauthentic to use glue. Any other nail or tool that you’d suggest?
I’m pretty Joanna knows what genuine shiplap is considering she is from Texas and most houses built before 1940 have it here. When she installs it maybe she should say shiplap look. Ha Luckily I live in a house built in 1910 so I have the good stuff!
Exactly this!!!!!! I have a 1917ish home and have real shiplap with the tongue and grove on both sides. My planks, like those in most old texas homes run as long at the entire length of my 15 foot rooms. They were all locally milled from old growth pine that was mostly forested from East TX. I was told by a local building historian that they used the shiplap and then nailed burlap that the wallpaper was then glued on to. They did that instead of plaster like in other parts of the country because the ground shifted so much in between the cold winters and hot summers. So when Joanna goes into an old house and surprise their is crappy wallpaper covered beautiful long planks that is indeed genuine shiplap. It will run you about $12-$15 a linear foot from salvage places here in DFW. Sadly my last contractor (who I fired) tossed some of mine, but I am never to proud to dumpster dive in the neighborhood to save what others toss.
Thank you for this explanation. I like watching the show, but couldn’t understand how she always seem to be finding it in all of these houses and it was deiving me nuts and now I also understand why former home owners were covering up what she was finding. Also, thank you for the pictures of real shiplap.
Happy to help Stephanie!
My husband has been yelling at the TV, as well. we love Jo & Chip!
But what is the HISTORY of shiplap used in homes? Was it originally recycled from its first use in boats in some coastal cities?!
Some I’m sure was recycled, but most was installed direct from the lumber yard. It provided better sheathing and water resistance that just butting boards up against each other. Before plywood it was one of the most popular options.
What type of shiplap wood was used in the early 1900s? Pine, Red Oak, Cedar……?
Typically pine, but there are a lot of regional species that were used as well in different areas.
I used to own a home built in 1918 in southern Ohio. Unfortunately it didn’t have shiplap, but I was wondering if shiplap was used in any of the old homes built in Ohio in the early 1900’s or if this more of a regional thing in only certain parts of the country.
either way, I love her designs, and she’s definitely cornered a market on what she does. Thanks for the info, now I know what shiplap really is. I’ve been using it incorrectly just like Jo Jo… 🙂
THANK YOU! However, this part of your article truly helped me:
“Shiplap is not plain wooden boards nailed on a wall. Often in old houses these boards can be found on the exterior of the framing just beneath the siding.
Today we frame a house and then install plywood sheathing to tighten the frame and help square everything up prior to putting on the siding and interior wall coverings. In the days before plywood we used 1×6 or 1×8 boards sometimes installed on a diagonal or horizontally as both sheathing and subfloor.”
When we gutted my bathroom I found diagonal boards on the exterior of the home…like it was closing my house in an entire box! Very interesting to me. My house was built in 1940 so this makes a lot of sense.
I’ve just paneled my house in ShipLap. Now I’m questioning
Maintenance? How do I clean it? I gave myself 1/2 in rabbet smooth board, now trying to figure out cleaning between the boards.When I paint one room in need of touch up , do I need to paint all rooms to match? Over the years how many times can I paint it ? We sprayed painted the boards.
I live in the mountains on a lake. Can I open windows worry free of moisture? If my paint company changes formula I’m in trouble. Thanks
I work in specialty lumber and this one has been driving me crazy, too. Thanks for posting this, it made my day. Sincerely, a True Shiplap, T&G and Paneling Supplier
Ha ha! Happy to help Michele!
Yeah I’m always explaining different trim and what it is to family and friends. Wainscoting, beadboard, shiplap… all get me blank stares.
Thanks! That’s been bothering me since I first saw that show!
Keep up the good work! Thank you for this site!