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Knob and Tube Wiring: What You Need to Know

Knob and Tube Wiring: What You Need to Know

Knob and tube wiring is one of the original forms of electrical wiring in homes, popular from the late 1880s until the 1930s when it fell out of favor. At the time, it was the standard for wiring new electrical installations due to its relatively low cost compared to the other options of the time like armored cable and conduits, which could cost two or three times as much as knob and tube wiring.

Today, there is a definite fear of old house wiring, especially when it comes to knob and tube wiring. Some of that fear is reasonable and some of it, like anything, is just blind fear from lack of knowledge. I wanted to lay out the facts about knob and tube wiring for you so that you can be informed and understand exactly what the issues are and how you can safely resolve them.

I’ll preface this by saying that I am not a licensed electrician. I am a licensed general contractor who works exclusively with historic buildings and have had plenty of experience with knob and tube, as well as learned a lot from the very skilled electricians on my job sites. Dealing safely with knob and tube is something that everyone who lives in an old house can and should learn, so keep reading below.

What is Knob and Tube Wiring?

Photo Credit: Sabra Smith

Knob and tube wiring is a simple form of wiring that gets its name from the porcelain knobs and tubes used in the installation process. The wiring itself is simple copper wires wrapped in a rubber sheath (earlier versions were wrapped in asphalt soaked cotton cloth). These wires were installed by running them in the walls between porcelain knobs, which kept them properly tensioned, away from the wood framing, and facilitated easy direction changes in the wiring. So, that’s the “knob” in knob and tube, now lets look at the “tube”.

The tube part of the name came, once again, from porcelain tubes that were drilled and inserted into any framing that the wiring needed to pass through. These tubes allowed the wiring to pass through the framing without touching it. This helped prevent the wires from contacting the framing, being crushed, or the sheathing being rubbed off as the house settled or moved with the seasonal weather changes.

The whole system was cleverly built to accommodate for the construction methods and electrical needs of the time. The wires generated a decent amount of heat when a electrical current passed through them. That heat was why they were kept away from the framing elements by the porcelain knobs. This allowed the heat to dissipate in the surrounding air keeping them at a safe temperature. Most installations were intended to safely service 10-amp loads per circuit without generating too much heat which was more than adequate for the needs of the time.

Splices were typically installed by twisting the two wires together and then soldering the joint and wrapping it in asphalt soaked cloth, which made for mechanically and electrically very strong joints when done properly.

Advantages of Knob and Tube Wiring

Yes, believe it or not, knob and tube wiring had some distinct advantages over its historic counterparts!

Low Cost

Knob and tube was considerably cheaper to install than its competitors, which were two and three times as expensive. Early on in the electrical field, the materials were the expensive part of the equation rather than the electrician’s wages. As electrical systems became more advanced and electricians became more skilled, labor costs for electricians went up much faster than the materials costs for electrical components.

Knob and tube wiring is very labor intensive to install, so this change in labor vs. materials caused knob and tube installation prices to outstrip its competitors and was one of the leading causes of its decline in popularity.


Another advantage of knob and tube wiring was the use of porcelain insulators. Porcelain is extremely resilient and has an almost indefinite lifespan providing excellent protection with almost no expiration date, which is hard to find. Also, the porcelain knobs were excellent at preventing the wires from being tensioned too much during the installation.

Disadvantages of Knob and Tube Wiring

You knew I was going to get to it eventually, right? The doom and gloom part? Yes, knob and tube wiring has a very distinct set of disadvantages too.

No Ground

That’s right, there is no ground wire included in a knob and tube setup. Just a hot and neutral wire were included. It wasn’t until the 1960s that a dedicated ground wire was consistently included in every circuit. The ground is important should there ever be power surges or overloaded circuits. If everything operates perfectly then you don’t need the ground wire, but since when does everything go perfectly?


Knob and tube works best when it has air to breathe. If you cover it with blown-in insulation it is not able to cool down and dissipate heat like originally intended, and this increases the potential for fire. It’s not just insulation that can cause this issue but really anything else that is stacked around the wires that blocks air flow. Even the current building code does not allow for insulation to be installed on top of active knob and tube.

Worn Sheathing

Unlike the porcelain insulators, the natural rubber or asphalt soaked cotton sheathing naturally wears out and breaks down over time, causing the wires to be exposed and increasing the potential for electrical shocks and also fire. During renovations old brittle sheathing is very easy to tear or damage, creating even more chances for danger.

Increased Power Needs

This is, in my mind, the biggest issue with knob and tube wiring. The electrical needs of a house in 1918 are dwarfed by a house in 2018. Electricity was used mainly for lighting purposes in the first half of the 20th century with only minimal appliance usage. Now, with central AC, computers, TVs, internet, washer, dryers, refrigerators, etc. our homes have become huge energy users, and antiquated electrical systems have real trouble keeping pace without modern needs.

A typical house in the 1920s had a 60-amp main service panel (the total electrical service capability the home can handle). Today that main service panel is usually at least 150-amp with most larger houses needing 200-amp service. Knob and tube wiring was never intended to handle loads anywhere close to that.

Improper Modifications

Another big issue is from modifications done with shoddy workmanship along the way. Improper splices are just one part of it. Overloaded circuits like we just discussed often happen when the power needs of the home increased marginally. For example, an original 10-amp knob and tube circuit may have been slightly overloaded so the homeowner changes to a larger 15-amp fuse to prevent it blowing so often. Years later, that same circuit gets unknowingly overloaded even more as new appliances are installed and gets even more dangerous.

Should You Replace Knob and Tube Wiring?

Alright, you’ve got the advantages and disadvantages of knob and tube wiring, and now you need some answers about what to do? In my opinion, knob and tube wiring should be replaced in almost all circumstances. There is very little benefit other than saving money that knob and tube provides today and when compared to the potential dangers, it just doesn’t add up.

Does that mean you need to tear your walls down to replace it? Definitely not! Knob and tube does not actually need to be removed from your walls, it just needs to be disconnected so it is no longer active. A quality electrician can completely rewire an old house without taking down whole walls, but rather punching small tactical holes to fish their new wires into place. Don’t spend the money to fully remove every trace of knob and tube, just be sure that you have every circuit fully disconnected and rewired with modern wiring.

You’ll sleep better, and ultimately get better insurance rates when your house has modern wiring. And those insurance savings can pay for the cost of the rewire in less than 10 years in most cases. When you account for the decreased risk of fire or other electrical problems rewiring is a no brainer. What do you think?

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24 thoughts on “Knob and Tube Wiring: What You Need to Know

  1. I’ve restored an 1810 home with a 1934-1936 laundry porch. The previous owners rewired the house but left 2 tubes with live wires sticking out of the facia under the back porch. I can’t get anyone to disconnect these and need to understand how to do this myself.

  2. I own a 3 family and 2 units were completely renovated and the knob and tube removed. The tenant in the third unit offered to pay for the electrical work in return for severely discounted rent for a period of years. I just learned that he did not use an electrician and, worse, cut into the knob and tube to add outlets and lights. He does not understand why I am upset at this. How dangerous is the knob and tube now?

  3. Hello. I bought a claw tub and had it repainted. I helped the man take off the feet before the restoration process and remember removing a small cast iron piece from one of the feet however, I cannot remember where it goes. We have been using the tub in a temporary setting and the feet have come off and the tub fallen two times. Is there a way I can post a picture? I am hoping some one will be able to tell me where the piece goes.

  4. We just purchased a 1920s 2 story which we think still uses the knob and tube. As far as insulation goes, would putting a loose plywood floor in the attic then putting insulation on the floor be advantageous or a waste of money as this wouldn’t touch any of the wiring?

  5. My husband and I are looking at buying a home built in the 1930s which is made of cinder block walls covered with wood paneling.it has knob and tube wiring and I’m wondering if it being a cinder block home makes the wiring process harder. They’re already asking a very high price for the house and unwilling to budge but we just love the property. I just don’t want it to get into a situation where it can’t be upgraded or it’s going to cost 20,000 upgrade. Like I said, the walls are completely cinder block built all the way up to the roof. Please give me your thoughts on this

    1. Maybe slightly less dangerous in a cinder block home, but it’s still an issue with overheated, overloaded circuits and wires. I don’t think a reire should cost $20k though unless the house is HUGE. More like $6-10k would be my guess.

    2. I’m not an electrician but the property sounds good. There should be a way rewiring those knobs and tubs.Example running the new wires lower on baseboards or high on the ceilings and cover the new wirings with some nice decorative items. Don’t be afraid to ask for electrical update renovations…next if they refuse to negotiate

  6. I just moved into a 1950’s home that had blown-in insulation added over the knob and tube system. I want to just pay to have the entire house upgraded so that it doesn’t rely on this system anymore. The electric company I contacted to put in a new system is asking that I remove the insulation first. This means I’d have to pay someone to blow it out, then blow it back in once the electric work is done. Based on some research I’m wondering if I can just have the old knob and tube decommissioned and left as is in the insulation, diffusing any fire risk since the lines aren’t active?

    1. Hi Chelsea …I just went onto this site to find your question , though its quite old ….No do not remove the insulation , simply deactivate the KNT at the panel ….it sounds like someone was trying to take advantage of you….i’m not an electrician but this seems to be the way to go

  7. My husband and I recently purchased a home from the early 1800s, so knob and tube is everywhere. We’ve replaced all of it in the attic but the one place we’re struggling to fix is a three-way switch in the stairway… this is mostly knob and tube in the walls, there’s easy access under the stairs to the wires and parts of that connection is romex.

    The problem here is that we don’t want to completely remove the knob and tube because that will required opening up walls made from plaster(which we don’t want to do), we’re trying to replace the wires we can get to with the new wiring but when we hook everything back up to the light, the switches don’t work… but the catch is it worked before, and when we even plugged it into an extension cord it worked as well. If anyone has any input as to what in the world we need to do with this situation, I’m glad to hear them out.

    1. I have been an Electrician for over 35 years, and I once ran into a situation where the second floor 3-way switch had a hot and neutral running to the switch with one wire running from that switch to the light. (moving the position of the switch changes this single wire from being a hot to a neutral) On the other end was in the basement, which also had a hot and neutral with one wire running to the light, This combination gave possible position results where 2 possible positions gave hot/neutral to light, causing it to work; one possibility of 2 neutrals to light causing it to not work (light off); and one possibility of 2 hots, also causing the light to be off. so that requires new wires running between both switched and the light, and removing one of the feeders. If the electrician is not aware of the odd manner of the old wiring there, and just uses them as a normal light switch is used, they wont work correctly.

  8. The house im living in, the whole upstairs where my room is is knob and tube wiring and one cirucit. How big of a risk is it to put a 8.7amp window ac in? Thanks

    1. Erika, that window unit is going to draw a lot of power and could be a hazard. If you don’t have the money to replace all the wiring I would at least have a new line run dedicated to the AC.

  9. I have a house built in 1966 with knob and tube. Its uses thermoplastic insulated wires (tw wire) with a 100amp fuse box. Thoughts on how safe it is?

  10. Our old house was a historical trace of electricity. From the main panel of screw in fuses, knobs and tube to romex. We finally after 20 years of searching off and on for an electrician found one that was willing to follow code! Most said too much work, some even said they new the BI and would not drill through the joists, I recommended running wire through conduit in the cellar but they said that was too much work! We have a new main panel which had to be located outside to have it meet code. The cellar has a four foot lip of concrete. It is perfect for canning jars. Our electrician is going room to room adding outlets and upgrading the old. We are even having switches put in for the three small closets.

  11. Great stuff, Scott. Thanks.

    When I renovated our 1908 house, I replaced all of the knob and tube EXCEPT wiring for the first floor ceiling fixtures. Didn’t want to disturb all of the plaster and lathe.

    1. That’s essentially what we did a year ago, on our 1900 house. The initial plan was just a new circuit for the office and bathroom. (The bathroom had no electrical outlet.) In the end each floor gout a new circuit; so, only the kitchen and dining room ceiling fixtures remain knob & tube. The plaster ceilings were to nice to damage.

  12. Thank you for posting this article!
    As an owner of a 1918 bungalow with the old knob & tube wiring I was somewhat aware of it’s downfalls, but this helped me be aware of more things and precautions I can take until I have enough money saved up to tackle the re-wiring project. I have ran into some issues, like a past work prior to buying the house where they overloaded the circuit board panel and a new non-permitted dryer outlet not working after I bought this beautiful home. This was shown to me by a licensed electrician that came to fix the problem. This problem also pointed out the fact that not all home inspectors are good at their job, missing other things too in that same laundry closet addition. Hence I firmly believe in permitted jobs. Inspections protect you. Knowing it was old tube & know and not all receptacles were grounded, I went around with a receptacle outlet tester to see if they worked or were grounded, color coding them with a little piece of electrical tape. I discovered that about only one or two receptacles in each room were grounded and others weren’t. Some didn’t work. This is important to test and know so you can govern yourself accordingly. Oddly enough, aside from the receptacles for the appliances for the kitchen remodel they did prior to buying the house, there are two receptacles, one grounded on a wall not close to any countertop, and the one on the countertop that obviously gets a lot of use with small appliances “IS NOT GROUNDED”. I have no other choice than to use it, but try to use one small appliance at a time and disconnecting the appliance after use. I once tripped the breaker on which the refrigerator was with that outlet and 2 or 3 times seen little sparks when I connect something. I have bought lighting to improve the light in the kitchen, which currently only has one ceiling light in the middle of the room, but I’m saving them for when proper rewiring and electrical load distributions can be done.
    I also have put off the attic insulation precisely because of the tube and knob situation.
    I’m glad to know the tube & knob doesn’t have to be removed. And will be looking for a preservation minded electrician.
    In the meantime I will be carefull with my color coded receptacles here in the Deep South in my craftsman bungalow with a lovely wrap around porch.

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