This is the last post in our 3 part series on how to strip paint. In the first one, I talked about working with chemical strippers and when and how to use them. Last week, we delved into the world of elbow grease and talked about how to scrape like a pro. This week, I want to talk about using heat to remove paint. Specifically, steam heat, but we’ll also discuss infrared strippers and good old-fashioned heat guns.
Stripping paint with heat is not a new idea. In fact, it’s one of the oldest techniques. Old carpenters and painters would use blow torches to quickly heat up paint causing it to lose its bond to the surface and be easily scraped free. This old technique may have removed paint well, but it also started a lot of house fires.
Enter technology and ingenuity. Paint removal has gone in two directions when it comes to heat, old school and new technology. Let’s talk old school first.
The Benefits of Steam Paint Removal
Steam is a simple and extremely effective way to remove paint. No messy chemicals or fear of fire. No replacement scraper blades to buy. You’ll need a steamer and a decent scraper or even a putty knife. The big bonus to steam paint removal is that since the paint softens from the heat and is wet from the steam, you have minimal (if any!) dust to worry about. In a house full of lead paint, that is a big stinking deal!
- No harsh fumes from chemicals or from dry heating paint
- Allows virtually dust-free paint removal (Good choice for lead-paint)
- Eliminates burnt wood and chances of fire
- Eliminates the need fort neutralizing chemical strippers
- Relatively inexpensive
There are expensive steam boxes for windows, and you can make your own, but if you don’t plan on doing a bunch of windows you’ll just need a simple garment steamer. Something like the Jiffy J-2000 (we use the larger J-4000) will work great for steaming paint off small areas. For me, steaming works best for window restoration. It softens rock hard glazing putty in no time and makes the process a million times easier (<—not a scientific calculation).
How to Remove Paint with Steam
It is a slow process that doesn’t require brute force, just patience.
- Hold the steamer head relatively close (within 1 inch or so) to the surface for about 15 seconds
- Once the paint starts to bubble up, scrape it off using a scraper or putty knife
- While scraping one section, be heating the next
- Once the wood has had some time to dry out, sand it smooth if necessary to remove any fuzz (if the wood gets dusty when you sand, it is dry enough, other wise wait longer)
How to Use Infrared Heat
Dry heating has come a long way since the blow torch idea. Today there are several infrared paint strippers on the market which make using heat safer than ever before. An infrared paint remover works at temperatures between 400°F and 500°F, which is well below the 1100°F area, which is where the lead in old paint can be vaporized.
In my shop, we used to use the Silent Paint Remover but have now switched over to the Speedheater for infrared paint removal. The Speedheater is more effective and has much better customer support. Mostly, we use this for doors since they are too large to fit in our window steamer. It works well, but has some drawbacks:
Pros of Infrared Heat
- Easily removes multiple thick layers of paint and varnish
- Can sand and prime immediately. No need to wait for drying
- Relatively dust-free operation
- Extremely effective on latex paints
Cons of Infrared Heat
- Creates annoying fumes from heated paint, but fortunately does not create toxic lead fumes.
- Can burn wood if left in one area too long
- Not as effective on extremely dry, brittle oil-based paints
How to remove paint using infrared heat is pretty much the same as with steam heat. Heat an area till the paint bubbles and begins smoking and then scrape that section off while you heat a new area. Be careful that the paint surface doesn’t burn because then you have heated the paint too long.
What About Heat Guns
I’d be remiss if I left heat guns out of the post on heat paint removal so here they are. These guns have been around a long time and haven’t changed much over the decades. They are effective and usually very inexpensive (around $20-$40), but they don’t work as quickly as infrared or steam. If you plan to use a heat gun, make sure it has a variable temperature control. It should let you choose what temperature you work at not just “High to Low.”
Heat guns can reach temperatures of 1200°F which can vaporize lead paint and easily cause fires. If you do decide to use this method, keep the temperature on the low side. It will take longer, but you won’t be breathing vaporized lead or burning down a house.
Founder & Editor-in-Chief
I love old houses, working with my hands, and teaching others the excitment of doing it yourself! Everything is teachable if you only give it the chance.
Question
What protection would we need to used a steam genie to remove latex paint from a school bus. I have access to a steam genie but garage staff are worried about burns.
My living room walls were painted with some type of texture added to the paint. It is extremely bumpy like a popcorn ceiling. Will this come off with steam? Is there a faster way to remove it? It’s a very large area and this sounds like it could take a long time to do the whole room.
Scott what kind of breathing apparatus would I need to strip water based paint off a wall with a steamer ? (plaster under the paint)
Thanks
I’m removing paint from trim and doors that were originally stained using a heat gun on a low-medium setting. 90% is coming off really easily all in long sheets and I was able to preserve the original stain. There are other sections that are stubborn. My question is: will using steam damage the underlying stain? Just checking to see if you’ve had any experience with this.
Hi Scott
Will heat (steam or blow torch) work on interior brick walls to remove water base paint.
Regards
Johan
27833888548
South Africa
Hi Scott
Will heat (steam or blow torch) work on interior wall to remove water base paint.
Regards
Johan
27833888548
South Africa
It will but I wouldn’t suggest the blow torch for fear of fire or lead paint fumes.
I found out by accident that a floor steam mop will remove paint well.
I was trying to use it to get cooking grease stains off from around the stove.
Scott-
I thought I would share my experience so far. I have 7 1950s windows that I am working to restore. Thus far I have only been working on the storm windows ( which is a nice way to build my skills).
For putty and paint removal I purchased the Hyde putty knife and glazier tool and a Jiffy 2000 steamer. I had no success whatsoever with the Jiffy 2000 ( although I am loving it for a clothes steamer). After some additional research, I rented a 1500 watt wallpaper steamer from my local Big Box store. That was helpful with the putty, but I was gouging more wood then I was removing paint. I then decided to order the Speedheater from EcoStrip. I used it today. Wow! I’m finally having success in both removing the putty and the paint. In my situation the Speedheater blows away the handheld steamers I tried.
This weekend I plan to try next steps (priming and reglazing) on at least one stormwindow using your book.
Thanks for offering such great a great resource
Michelle, glad the Speedheater is working well for you! The steamers work best for me with a steam box that I can put the sashes in and let them cook for about an hour. Then the putty is softened up all over. The Speedheater works best just the way you are using it. Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much for sharing. I am in the exact process and was wondering how to that.
Will look at that device asap!
Cheers
Hi there,
The fascia on my house has lead paint that is peeling really badly…and flaking off. You can see the bare wood. Would steam heat work on this?
If not, what would be the best progression of grits to use? What grit sandpaper should I start and end with?
Hi Scott,
Very helpful info as always. Would it be okay to use a steamer on a very recently plastered wall? Unfortunately the roller used to paint it has left an ugly bumpy and uneven finish so I want to start from scratch.
Thanks!
Wait at least a month for the plaster to cure and test it in a small area first.
Is there any risk of damaging the wooden window sashes using the steam box method? The other half and I are fiercely debating this one–he is convinced that the wood will warp if we use steam to remove paint and glazing putty.
Nicole, using steam has been in practice for a couple decades by window restorationists without problems. My shop alone has done a few thousand windows with steam and had no problems. It really is the safest way to go.
Would steam heat be the best method for removing lead paint from wood floors?
Steam is great for any kind of lead paint removal! It helps keep the dust down and breaks the bond between the paint and wood.
Scott, can you publish plans or instructions for building a small steam cabinet? After stripping a few sashes with a heat gun, i’m ready to take the rest to get dipped until i read your posting recommending not to. The steam looks promising. Thank you for writing such a great blog!
Dave Bowers has plans available right here: http://www.oldewindowrestorer.com/steamcabinet.html
These are the plans I built my cabinets from.
Thank you for this info. What about sandblasting wood trim? I’ve got 6 rooms worth of flat trim with 4 layers of paint, and my contractor suggested this method.
Susan, sandblasting usually scars the wood surface and I have seen irreparable damage to all kind of wood and brick from sandblasting. Stick with more gentle methods for sure!
I unfortunately have had a sort of stucco sprayed onto my exterior wood and porch brick. I live in a historic neighborhood with many ambitious restoration minded people who make an “Aw crap” face when I tell them this. I have heard this is so hard to remove that most people leave it. The only solution I have found online is a blow torch which scares the living crap out of me. I don’t know that I trust hiring anyone who will not burn down my house. Is blow torch really the only way?
Can infrared heat be used to remove paint from brick? I need a safe method to remove latex paint from 1830’s brick exterior.
I spoke with the creators of The Speedheater and here is the response they gave me about infrared pant removal on brick.
Thank you so much for your reply. I appreciate getting an expert opinion. The original brick is beautiful and should never have been covered. Maybe you could do an article about how damaging it is to paint brick. Thanks again.
Good idea!
Hi,
I”m a homeowner of a house built before 1978. I had it tested for lead paint last month, and some of the exterior (but not all) has lead paint on it.
I am just a homeowner…not a contractor or painter or anything. Where can the average homeowner buy the equipment for steam heat removal of lead paint? Can steam heat be applied to any part of the house or just windows?
thanks,
A homeowner
I have several old doors, that have a severely gatored finish. Could the garment steamer work on these without a box? I don’t know what the finish is – varnish?
The steam might help on severely alligatored paint but sometimes when the paint is that alligatored steam doesn’t do as much and you’re better off using a good scraper since the paint is so dried out. If you have the garment steam you can use it in sections to try stripping the paint and see what kind of progress you make.
I read several reviews of the Silent Paint Remover a couple of years ago, & a common complaint seemed to be that the plastic housing didn’t hold up (broke easily because of heat). Has that design flaw been addressed? It sounds like a good idea if the housing were sturdier. Otherwise I’m not sure about spending that much on a tool that would break after only a few hours’ use.
I have used mine for about 3 years now and haven’t had any problems with the plastic housing. It has discolored from the heat, but still strong and sturdy. They do make upgraded models that are all metal (some are right around the same price point).
Very informative, as always. A pleasure to read and learn from you. Thanks for all you do.