Usually I focus on how to restore the older elements of your house, but today, I’ve got a little tutorial for making something new look old.
One of the last pieces of the puzzle is installing wood floors.
The rest of our 1929 house has beautiful quarter-sawn white oak floors, but the attic just had 3/4″ planks of wood in varying widths. I had to take all this up in order the insulate and honestly it was a little rough and splintery to have a couple toddlers running around on. Not to mention there were a lot of split boards.
So, I decided to save the old floor boards at my shop for reclaimed projects down the line and install new wide plank pine flooring. It wasn’t actually flooring though. I used 8″ shiplap siding and laid it down upside down. It was cheaper and had more heart wood than the other pine I looked at.
I considered using reclaimed heart pine flooring, but the cost was just too much.
So, what do you do to make new pine look like it belongs in the attic of a 1929 Bungalow? You distress it!
Below is the simple process that you can use to give new wood a vintage, shabby chic, distressed painted look. It’s not difficult to make distressed wood floors, and if I can do this on a 300 SF floor, you can do it on a table top or piece of furniture much easier.
How To Make Distressed Wood Floors
Step 1 Lightly Sand
Whether you are distressing a new floor or an old one, you need to give everything a light sanding prior to starting. This smooths out surface imperfections, cleans up the wood, and prepares the surface to accept the paint better. Especially for a high traffic floor, this will help the paint bond better over its lifetime.
Use a 100-grit sandpaper or 80-grit screen to sand the entire surface. Once you’re finished sanding, make sure you thoroughly vacuum up any dust and you’ve go a completely clean floor with no debris.
Step 2 Paint
No priming here, just good ol’ paint. I rolled on one good coat of Sherwin Williams ProClassic Acrylic-Alkyd paint. I work with this paint often and like how hard of a finish it dries to without being tacky.
For floors especially, I would recommend a good enamel paint. You can use an oil-based paint for a very hard finish or water-based enamels will work well too. I used a Satin sheen, but you can use whatever sheen you’d like, though I would stay away from flat or matte sheens because they don’t handle traffic as well as satin, semi-gloss or high gloss.
Step 3 Scuff Sand
Once the paint dried, about 24 hours in my case, I broke out my belt sander strapped on some 80-grit sandpaper and went to town. You want to sand with the grain (not against it or diagonally to it) in order to make the scuffing look natural.
How much you decide to distress the paint is totally up to you. I tried to hit the higher traffic areas more since the floor would naturally be more worn in those spots from decades of foot traffic.
The goal here is to reveal some of the wood underneath the paint. How much wood is personal preference.
Once you’re done, you need to vacuum again and get the floor completely clean before the next step.
Step 4 Stain
Now that you’ve got a perfectly white floor that is all scuffed up, it’s time to add the age and vintage look. Wipe on a stain in your preferred color. I used Minwax Dark Walnut here. Using a cotton rag, wipe the stain in thoroughly and then wipe it off immediately. Work in manageable sections (maybe 3′ x 3′) so the stain doesn’t doesn’t dry on you.
If you are doing a floor, this works well as a 2 person operation with one person applying the stain and the other wiping it off right behind them.
The important detail here is that when you wipe off the stain, you want to wipe in the direction of the wood again. Wipe it off thoroughly too. You don’t want lap marks or any signs of this being a faux finish. It should look completely natural.
The stain will turn the bright paint a nice antique cream color, and in the areas where you sanded through the paint, it will result in a deep color to reveal the wood grain underneath.
You’re almost done now!
Step 5 Seal
After the stain has dried a day or so, there are a couple ways you can seal and protect your project. The most effective will be poly-acrylic, lacquer or paste wax.
I used Minwax Paste Finishing Wax here because the process is so simple and I wanted an old time feel. Waxing a floor is just like waxing a really big flat car. Buff the paste wax on, let it sit till it hazes over, and then buff it off. Voilà!
For smaller projects, a couple cans of spray poly or lacquer can work just fine. Apply 2-3 coats and you should be good. For floors, you could go full bore and apply 3 coats of poly-acrylic for protection, but I don’t know that that is entirely necessary.
This is one of those rare cases where I don’t recommend oil-based polyurethane because it will change the color of the floors by adding a slightly amber tint to everything.
In my case, I felt like one coat of paste wax would be more than sufficient. We’ll see how it holds up with time and toddlers, but I was pleased with the end result.
The great thing about this technique is that it can be applied to almost any wood surface, not just floors. You can distress anything to give it that shabby chic or vintage look.
For me, this helped a new room look like it was an original part of our historic house and that is extremely important. Now, go forth and distress that wood!