Sometimes builders installed their old wood windows without weight pocket access doors to save a couple bucks. While it didn’t seem like a big deal at the time, it creates a whole lot of work for us today when a sash rope breaks.
Rather than being stuck with the typical alternative of removing the window trim and leaving yourself with a lot of plaster repair, here is an easier way to fix the problem for good.
In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to cut weight pocket access doors yourself so that whenever the ropes break in the future, you can easily repair them.
It only takes a few minutes per window and you need a couple tools.
- Circular saw
- Tape Measure
- Speed Square
- Two 3/4″ screws per access door
How To Cut Window Weight Access Doors
In order to cut the access doors, you’ll have to have the window sash out of the opening first. If you’re not sure how to do that, I have tutorials on that on my resource page How To: Repair Old Wood Windows that you can easily follow.
Step #1 Measure
Run your tape from the window sill up the side of the jamb. You’ll need to make two marks, one at about 9″ above the sill and the other about 24″ to 28″ above the sill. I try to keep the top of my access doors below the top of the bottom sash for reference.
Step #2 Mark Your Cuts
Using a speed square draw a straight line across the inside portion of the jamb at each of the marks you made in Step #1 using the blind stop as a straight edge. You’ll need to mark the half of the jamb from the parting bead channel to just under where the interior stop goes.
Step #3 Cut Tops and Bottoms
Using the multi-tool, make a plunge cut into the top and bottom marks on the jamb as shown in the picture below. It is imperative that you cut at a different 45º angle for the top and bottom. Attaining a perfect 45º is not crucial, but the direction that the angle goes is. Here is the breakdown:
The top cut should be at a DOWNWARD angle.
The bottom cut should be at an UPWARD angle.
Cutting at these two angle creates a trapezoid which cannot fall back into the hole you will create. This is the most important part, so pay careful attention.
Step #4 Cut the Sides
Time to break out your circular saw. I used a corded model in this tutorial, but the little battery powered ones are much easier for this. Why didn’t I use one? Because someone (me) forgot to load it in the truck the morning we were taking pictures!
Anyway, Set the depth on your circular saw to just over 3/4″ since most jambs are made of wood this thick. If your house is older than the 1890s, then you may have 7/8″ or even 1″ thick jambs. If that’s the case, you’ll need to change the depth.
You may ask why I don’t just set the depth to 1″ or 1 1/2″ to cover all my bases? Because there are lead or iron weights sitting right behind the jamb and I don’t want my saw blade to be hitting those big metal weights and create damage and sparks. Start at the shallowest cut and if it doesn’t work, keep creeping up on the thickness until you find the right depth.
You’ll need to make 2 vertical plunge cuts. If you’ve never made a plunge cut using a circular saw before, do a little research to make sure you are doing it safely. The first should be inside the parting bead channel or rabbet. This cut needs to connect the bottom and top lines you just cut with the multi-tool.
The second vertical line should be located underneath the interior stop so that it is hidden when the window is reinstalled. On this cut, it’s important to leave at least 1/2″ to 3/4″ of space between the inside edge of the jamb and the cut. This way you don’t compromise the strength of the jamb.
Step #5 Remove & Add Screws
After these two cuts are finished, your new access door should fall right out. If it is still resisting removal, then check that there are a few places you may not have cut all the way through yet.
Once it is free, you can change out the ropes freely. When you’re ready to close things up, you’ll need to add two 3/4″ screws (one at the top and one at the bottom) to secure the door in place until the next time you need to open it.
I always pre-drill the holes because the screws are so close to the ends of the access door which greatly increases the chance the wood will split if you don’t. Trust me, it’s worth the extra 20 seconds.
Steps 1-5 in Pictures
Now you can easily access the weights anytime you need, not to mention, you’ve been much more generous to the next guy or gal who owns your house, unlike that stingy builder.
Founder & Editor-in-Chief
I love old houses, working with my hands, and teaching others the excitment of doing it yourself! Everything is teachable if you only give it the chance.