The 7 Best Products to Patch Wood

Sometimes it’s nail holes and sometimes it’s rotten wood, but your projects will often require you to patch wood. In this post I’ll help you determine the best materials (and there are tons available!) to use when the time comes to patch wood projects.

The type of material you should use will depend on what kind of patching or filling you need to do. Is it exterior or interior? Will it be painted or left natural? We’ll focus on answers to those questions as well.

If you want to purchase any of these products I would love it if you bought them through the links in this post which are affiliate links and help me pay to keep The Craftsman Blog running at no extra cost to you. If you decide not to you can always purchase most of these at your local hardware store.

1. Durham’s Water Putty

This product is extremely versatile and is a mainstay of my shop. Mix the powder with water to whatever consistency you need. If you want it to self-level, mix it thinner. If you need it to stick to a vertical surface mix it thicker.

Apply it with a putty knife or whatever tool is most applicable to your project. And let it dry. Drying time varies wildly depending on how big the wood patch is and the weather. Once it is dry sand it smooth, prime, and paint.

Water Putty can work both outdoors and indoors, but without priming and paint, it will mildew and fail rather quickly. The great stuff about Durham’s Water Putty is that as it dries it expands to fill the hole and really sticks into the patch unlike most wood fillers that shrink as they dry.

 

2. MH Ready Patch

As of late, this has become my go to filler to patch wood. It doesn’t work for structural patches like an epoxy, but it does almost everything else. It dries fast, 30-45 mins before it’s ready to sand.

It is an oil-based product but it cleans up with soap and water, which I love! I use it to fill holes up to a quarter in size, smooth out alligatoring paint, fill surface gouges or almost anything else I may need. I really can’t extol the virtues and uses of MH Ready Patch enough.

 

3. LiquidWood & WoodEpoxAbatron LiquidWood WoodEpox

There are tons of different types of epoxies for wood, but this product by Abatron is by far my favorite. We use this every single day! This system is a permanent solution that you can use for repairs as small as filling small holes to completely rebuilding damaged pieces. The two parts work together to stabilize “punky” wood and fill in the missing areas.

The repairs can be sanded, drilled, planed, essentially you are left with a piece that performs just like wood but will never rot or fall out. Epoxy repairs are some of the strongest most long-lasting ways to patch wood. They are structural, so they can be used anywhere and are usually not troubled by water issues like other putties.

Got some serious rot? This is the stuff you need. For info on how to use this awesome product, read my tutorial How To Repair Rotted Wood With Abatron Epoxy

 

4. Wood Filler

Wood filler is available everywhere and it is the standard. Some wood fillers have a sandy consistency and some are smoother. There are interior formulas and exterior as well.

The nice thing about wood filler is that you can usually find it in many different colors or in stainable options to achieve an even better color match. Apply it with a finger tip or putty knife, sand when it’s smooth and prime when you’re done.

 

5. Sawdust & Superglue

This is an old carpenter’s trick to fill nail holes on furniture that will be left unpainted. This method works great for filling small holes in woodwork.

To patch wood using this method, you’ll need sawdust from the specific wood you are patching. Mix it with just a bit of superglue. You don’t need a lot of glue, just enough to bind the sawdust together and create a thick paste. Use a putty knife to push the mixture into the nail holes quickly since superglue dries so quickly. Once it’s dry, sand the surface and you’re good to go.

 

6. DAP Painter’s Putty

This putty excels at filling nail holes and other small spots. The thing I love about it is that it doesn’t require sanding. Use your finger to push it into the hole and then smooth the surface level with your finger.

This is an oil-based putty which makes it fairly slow drying, especially if it is primed or painted with an oil-based paint. That slow drying aspect means that it remains flexible for a longer period which is very helpful. The negatives are that it doesn’t do well in large gaps and also has a tendency to make your paint “flash” if not primed.

 

7. KwikWood

Anyone who does wood repair should have a tube of this sitting in their shop or garage. This is a very simple to use 2-part epoxy that you mix with your hands. It is kind of like squishing a tootsie roll together to mix both parts. Once you mix it, you have about 10 minutes before it starts to set up and in 20-30 mins, it is hard as a rock.

I use it to form difficult profiles that I need to sculpt or as a structural repair. Its fast drying time and resistance to rot and mildew make it perfect for exterior repairs. I have used it outdoors and left it unpainted for years with no problem. It’s a champ and a real time saver!

 

You may have a different product or technique that I didn’t mention, and if you do let us know about it in the comments. Hopefully, this post has given you some great new products to try. I know these will make your projects go smoother and look better. Happy patching!

 

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by Scott Sidler

I'm a historic preservationist and author. I help old house lovers understand & restore their homes so they can enjoy the history and character that surrounds them more everyday! When not working, writing or teaching about old houses I spend most of my time fixing up my own 1929 bungalow with my wife Delores and son Charley.

http://www.austinhomerestorations.com

85 comments

  1. Kent Hartle on said:

    Scott, I found your blog article interesting, however still many options. I am looking to fill plywood kitchen cabinet door fronts that were routed with a design box type line on the front thirty years ago , but we want to make flat and paint to bring up to more current designs. Considering a thin laminent sheet or fill sand and paint. Do you think one of the fillers that you mentioned would work well for the fill sand and paint approach?

    Thank you for your thoughts!

    Kent

    • Kent, when we build cabinets we typically use Bondo to fill and sand holes. As long as it won’t be exposed to the elements.

  2. linda on said:

    Hi, I found this site by google search and I was wondering if I can repair wood railings that are splintering with KwikWood? I need to put a layer of something down and sand and paint. Thanks for your help.

    • Linda, welcome to The Craftsman! Kwikwood works best to fill gouges in the wood surface. Depending on what kind of splintering exactly you may need something different. It may also just need a good sanding and refinishing. Send a picture if you can and I might be able to help you a bit more.

  3. Marv Curtis on said:

    Scott, I need to fill some holes in a antique convertible top bow. The bow is where they tack the canvas top to. The bow is structurally sound, but one side is peppered with holes. My question is, is there a filler that when I’m done it will hold tacks again and not just crack and fall out?

    Thank you in advance
    Marv

    • Marv, try an epoxy like the WoodEpox and LiquidWood combination by Abatron. Kwikwood would likely do the trick as well. Sand it smooth when you’re done and both of these will hold nails well if you fill the holes completely.

      • Marv Curtis on said:

        Thank you Scott. I was hoping you had some suggestions. A replacement bow is $400 and I would much rather spend that else wear.

  4. Edward on said:

    Scott, I’m buying a table that has a damaged leaf, and I want to repair that damage as easily and invisibly as possible. You make all seven products sound easy and effective, but I’m leaning toward the $5 Elmer’s Wood Filler for this, unless you think Kwikwood’s a better way to go.

    • Since the damage is on an edge your options are a bit more limited. Kwikwood might work, but if it were me I would use a restoration epoxy called WoodEpox made by Abatron. It will cling onto the edge tenaciously and not chip off like ordinary wood filler which works best to fill a hole mostly. Once you’ve patched it you’ll need to sand, stain and finish it. Good luck!

  5. leslie on said:

    hi scott! i’m working on a fireplace which has big grooves cut out by a router. we’re wanting to smooth the surface to create a modern look. i noticed in an earlier comment on the kitchen cabinets you advised bondo and didn’t know if you’d recommend the same for this situation or one of the other products in the article. it’s also a painted surface and i’ve started sanding it down to the bare wood. obviously this is more of a challenge in the grooves and i was wondering if it’s critical to get ALL the paint off or just “weather” it. thanks so much for your help!

    • Leslie, just about any wood filler or patching compound performs best when it is used on bare wood vs. a painted surface. Your situation is tough because the area around a working fireplace will have extreme temperature swings so you’d be best suited with an epoxy filler like WoodEpox. Use that in conjunction with LiquidWood and sand down to bare wood as much as you can in the grooves. Check out this post on how to strip the paint from the grooves: http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-strip-paint-part-1-chemical-strippers/

  6. Whitney on said:

    Scott, we’re taking carpet up off of an engineered wood surface. we’ll need to patch the nail holes left by the tack strips. can you use the same products on engineered wood? which product would you recommend? thanks for your help!

    • Whitney, I would use colored wood filler that matches the color of your floors as closely as possible.

  7. ilen on said:

    We’re trying to use an old redwood plank as a countertop, but the epoxy that was used previously to repair the wood is delaminating. There are a few fist-sized knotholes about 1″ deep. We don’t want to paint, so ideally whatever we use comes in colors or can be stained to match the wood. What would you recommend?

    • I haven’t worked with redwood much being down in the southeast, but delaminating epoxy is no good. I would try the Abatron products making sure to use the LiquidWood first to essentially glue the WoodEpox into the repair. It’s also stainable as long as you sand the epoxy once dry. Just try pulling that stuff out once it’s cured!

  8. Bill on said:

    Hi Scott, 

       I’m working on my log cabin and wanted to know what you suggest on filling in cracks/splits in the outside logs. I guess it’s due to nails splitting the wood. I’m going to fill in a lot of them so I’m going to need a large amount. I have been using Sikkens on the logs, so I’m looking for a stainable product. I saw at Lowe’s Durham’s water putty, Minwax stainable wood filler, and Elmer’s Probond wood filler. I wasn’t sure which one would be best or if one of the other six products you mention are better, if so, where should I look to buy them? Also, I do have some rot in some of the logs which I look to clean out and fill in, which product do you recommend? Will the products help prevent further splitting?
    Based on your guide, which is helpful, I should sand and clean the areas before applying the product then lastly I can stain. Any help or guidance is much appreciated. 

    Thank you in advance! 
    Bill

  9. Kathy on said:

    Scott, thanks for your helpful site. I have an old splintering deck and picnic table, both previously stained over 5 years ago. I would like to fill, sand and waterproof the wood. Both are made of treated lumber and are 10-20 years old.
    What do you suggest to smooth and protect from further damage of water And sun?
    Thanks,
    Kathy

    • Kathy, WoodEpox is the way to go for exterior wood filling if you don’t plan to paint.

      • Matt W on said:

        Rather than fill all those deck boards, I suggest using one of the new thick topcoat “paint” products that you apply with a roller that basically puts a thick but even new surface on splintering old decks. Much easier than filling the boards and once it’s done it’s over. They come in various shades of tan and brown.

  10. Joe on said:

    Scott,
    I have a cabinet door with a previously drilled hole for concealed hinges but the holes for the mounting screws are to big. Could I used one of these techniques to fill the holes, then re-drill and fasten the hinges in whatever filler I use. I should mention I drilled the holes and put hinges at the top and bottom of the door this previously drilled hole is in the middle. Thanks for any insight you can offer,
    Joe

    • I’d try Kwikwood Joe. Easy solution for something like this and plenty strong to hold the new screws .

      • Joe on said:

        Thanks so much Scott! I can’t wait to try it out!

  11. Angela on said:

    Hi Scott,
    What should I use to fill a few drilled holes in a cedar 4 X 4 deck post. (Kwikwood?) The post will be stained after the holes are filled. Also, the post rotted where to two top rails meet in the corner allowing water to drip into the post. Any ideas to fill in the space where the top rails form the corner?
    Thanks
    Angela

    • Angela I would use either Kwikwood or WoodEpox for those repairs.

  12. Jeff on said:

    Hello… I found the article of great interest… Question … How well do these wood repair products stand up to expansion and contraction from heat and cold?

    I live in northern most Michigan… The temps get down to -20’s in the winter and 80’s in the summer… Will the repairs with these products pop out or crack the wood in the very cold or over expand the wood during a hot summer?

    Thanx!

    Jeff

    • Jeff, if properly primed and painted most of these fillers will perform well with the extreme weather changes. The absolute best for staying bonded to the wood is the Abatron products though. When used with LiquidWood, WoodEpox really holds tenaciously to the surface it’s applied to.

  13. Sylvia on said:

    Hi Scott,
    Repair is needed to fill in a 2″-3″ diameter hole in a stained maple wood cabinet. What product would be best for this repair?
    Thank you,
    Sylvia

  14. Dana on said:

    I have wood siding. Where to boards meet the putty they installed is starting to crack. What is the best way to fill this gap. Re-putty or use one of the methods above.

    • For patching siding I would stick with an epoxy like Kwikwood if it’s a small patch or Abatron WoodEpox for larger repairs. They hold up much better in the extreme conditions that siding is put through all year.

  15. Bob on said:

    about to refinish approximately 800 square feet of oak flooring. I have seen someone use a thinned out wood putty poured onto the floor and spread with a trowel to fill joints, nail holes etc. Any idea what this product is?
    Thank you very much
    Bob

    • Bob, here’s a little trade secret. The national wood flooring association recommends filling joints in wood floors with premixed joint compound that is tinted to the color of the wood. It bonds well, fills great and is easily sanded. Get some tints from you local paint store and mix the colors yourself to come as close as you can to the wood color.

  16. Jessica on said:

    Dear Scott,
    I have just purchased an old butcher’s block. I plan to use it as an island in my kitchen. There are a few areas that had some wood rot. I want to fill it with something that will not need to be painted or stained but can be sanded. Preferably something clear? What would you recommend?
    Thanks!

    • Jessica, for a butcher block you’re better off doing a Dutchman repair than using wood filler or epoxy. Cut a piece of wood that matches the damaged section, then glue it in place an clamp it.

  17. Cathy on said:

    Hi Scott,
    We have old hardwood flooring in our bedrooms that is in fair condition but not good enough condition to “restore” them. I would like to find a product that I can use to fill cracks and splintered areas and make them “last” a little longer until we can afford to lay new flooring over them. I saw a comercial for a new Behr Deckover product for exterior decking and wondered if it can be used indoors for what I am looking to do?

  18. Sonny on said:

    Awesome tips.

    Just wondering what you think is the best way to fill some melamine finished chipboard cupboard screw holes.
    We can’t sand the surface once it’s filled, so is there one of these we can wipe clean?

    • Sonny, most of these products can be smoothed over before they dry with a rag moistened in whichever solvent is recommended by the manufacturer (often water or acetone depending on the formula). If you plan to install screws again try the KwikWood or Abatron products for good holding strength.

  19. Phillip on said:

    Hi Scott!! Thank you for your wonderful suggestions!
    I have to hide the holes from the screws I drilled to hang my plasma TV on the nice woodwork panel (white color) above the fireplace. Very clean holes, about 3mm in diameter, six of them.
    I guess a touch of white paint to finish up after whatever you suggest?

    • Phillip, try the MH ReadyPatch. It might take two coats but it dries quickly. Make sure to prime the patch before you touch up the paint.

  20. Tate on said:

    Hi Scott, I was wondering what I could use to fill in an outdoor treated wood deck before I sand and paint it….what happened is my dad tried to get the old paint off with a power washer so I could put new paint on and he got a little too close and splintered it and took chunks out! Can you help me out please?

    • You can fill it but I doubt that on an exposed horizontal surface the patch will last too long. I would probably replace the severely damaged boards with new lumber. Or you can fill with an epoxy like the WoodEpox and make sure you coat the deck with a opaque stain to hide and protect the patches.

  21. Steven Younts on said:

    Hi Scott, thanks for your great site and the info on wood repair. I agree with you on the versatility and ease of MH Ready Patch.

    I have not used Durham’s Water Putty, but thanks to your suggestion, I am considering it for a project I am currently working on. The work involves repairing the appearance of four eight foot tall square pillars that support the edge of an overhanging second story above my garage. The 6″x6″ pillars are generally rough, and in places pretty beat up with hammer strikes, saw cuts, knot holes and deep gouges. The largest gouge, for example, is 1.5″ x 5″ and .5 inches deep.
    Amazingly, from 20 feet away, one doesn’t notice the damage much, especially when the white paint is in good repair. However, I am improving the overall look of this area, and the damage is becoming more obvious. It is the ugliest thing that always stands out.
    I am doing a minimal repair to the pillars, filling the worst areas, sanding, priming and painting. The Woodepox appears to be the ideal repair material, but you also give a strong recommendation to the much less expensive Durham’s Water Putty, with the caveat of needing priming and painting. Have I assessed your recommendations correctly? Also, since the pillars are already painted, will the patching materials hold? I did notice recently that one previous patch popped out of an old hammer strike. It seemed as though the patching material couldn’t get a grip on the latex paint. I appreciate you advice and expertise. Thanks, Steve

    • Steve, WoodEpox is by far my favorite patching material for exterior due to its tenacious hold and ability to withstand the elements. When used in combination with LiquidWood it’s a fantastic product. As for application over paint, for almost all of these products the surface needs to be cleaned down to bare wood before application. The wood also need to be dry. The patch will not last if done on a painted surface.

  22. Jim on said:

    I have a 4 X4 post that is part of the stair rails that has significant rot near the bottom (pulled two large handfuls out if that gives you the picture, probably half the post is eaten away at that spot). I don’t want to repair the entire post, would the epoxy product be an option. If so, how far can you build up the amount of product before it isn;t feasible anymore. I was thinking about drilling a number of screws into what’s left of the good wood and molding the compound around them so they have something to hold onto. I’d appreciate your thoughts.

    • Jim, in your situation I would dig out the damaged wood and fill a large portion of what’s missing with a Dutchman patch then fill the remaining smaller gaps with the epoxy. You can fill it all with epoxy, but that can be expensive.

  23. Steve on said:

    Hi Scott, I am working on a project that involves repairing some old (20 -25 yrs) pt wood, outside stairs and flower garden, I am replacing some of the really rotten wooden but some only have cracks that are only about 3/8 inch wide. Can I use Woodepox, and where can I get it? in Canada

    • You can find WoodEpox in my Amazon store. Patching PT wood is always questionable depending on how dry it is and how much and what chemicals were used for the treatment. You may not get optimal performance from any epoxy filler.

  24. Elisabeth on said:

    Hi Scott,
    I’ve just purchased an oval table with a leaf and I’m wanting to permanently remove the leaf and fill the seam of the table so it is invisible. Any suggestions for what to use that will be durable? I’m turning it into a train table for my daughter.

    • If it’s a thin seam and you plan to paint the table I’d use water putty or standard wood filler.

  25. I am making some shelves for our computer room that are up high and I am using the closet, door, and window casings to support in some places, but because we do not want to have shelf brackets taking up pitcher hanging wall space, I routed the underside of the boards to put 8″ “L-brackets” in some spots to support the shelves. I was going to use Durham’s Rock Hard Water Putty to fill in around and over the brackets to hide them and then paint the boards white and the brackets the color of the wall where they mount to it above the shelf. Will the water putty adhere to the bracket like it will to the wood or should I use something like the Kwikwood or Bondo. My wife wants to start painting, so I need to complete the shelves soon. Thanks for bailing me out.

    • Kevin, using some joint compound or spackle would probably work best to cover over the brackets. It will adhere well and blend in perfectly with the wall once you paint.

  26. Liberty on said:

    I am refinishing an old wood desk. I bought new hardware for it but apparently measured the center to center handle distance wrong. The existing holes are 2 7/8″ & the new handles are 3″. What would be the best product to use, since the new holes will be practically right on top of the old ones?

    • Try KwikWood. Works good for these kind of repairs and is fast!

  27. wendy on said:

    I have a chunk of wood 24-20 I am making an end table out of. It has wholes made from ants. A few are 3 inches wide. The piece of wood is 4 inches think. I want the wholes to show so I am looking for something to fill them in that looks like water (clear). What kind of resin or a pony will work for this project?

    • Wendy, there are plenty of clear epoxies that will work well for this available at most hardware stores. I think the one I’ve used in the past is made by JB Weld and it worked very well.

  28. wendy on said:

    Oh and the wood is cedar

  29. Robin Wohl on said:

    My husband and I are not overly handy. We need something to fill in small scratches (some have depth) in a hard wood floor. I was thinking about using Elmer’s walnut wood filler. Will this work or do I need to use something different. Do I have to do anything afterward, like a sealant?

    • Robin, on a floor you will likely need something a bit stronger to stand up to the traffic. Unless the scratches are significant I would probably simply add some stain to the area so the fresh wood blends in and isn’t as apparent. Trying to fill surface scratches often has to be re-done over and over.

  30. Craig on said:

    I am building a new home. All the walls and ceilings are 1×8 shiplap white fir…23,000lf. We want an old cottage look so we have lots and knots, cracks and etc. We are painting the wood white. We have extensive amounts of knot holes where you can see through. Some are small and some are huge. We need to fill the holes as they look horrible with the white. Like a giant black hole. The symmetrical circles look too perfect. Most holes are 1″ in diameter. Some are monsters at 2″. Assuming you had to patch about 500 of these and there is no backing on the wood…what would you use?

    • Craig, if there is nothing but a void behind the knot holes I would probably glue some screening behind the hole or push something else back there that can give a backstop to the filler and then I’d use either Durham’s Water Putty or for an even better repair WoodEpox to fill the whole. Sand it smooth and prime and paint.

  31. Susan on said:

    I need to repair cedar siding on the north side of my house. I removed the wood deck that was attached to the house and it revealed some rotten wood. Some areas are large and up to 1/2″ deep. I plan to paint once it is repaired. I live in Michigan so I need to be concerned about weather fluctuations. Based on your comments I am leaning toward the Abatron Epoxy. Would you agree? Thank you!

    • Susan, go with the Abatron. You won’t be disappointed!

  32. James on said:

    My new dining room table has a decorative square 1/8″ x 1/8″ routed groove 4″ in around the table top. With 4 kids that groove catches a lot of crumbs. What could or should I use to fill in the groove. It is stained or painted black and I would like to paint or stain any filler black.

    • Getting the filler to go all the way black might be difficult but I would do some tests with filler and stain to see if you can get the color where you want it. If you are going to paint it black then the solution is a bit easier and I would use the LiquidWood and WoodEpox so you get a more resilient finish that bonds well. With such a small area regular wood filler will likely chip out over time.

  33. Jameson on said:

    I have two cabinets set side by side and want to make them look like one seamless cabinet. What should I use for the void?

    • Jameson, it depends how big the space between is. Likely you’ll need a filler piece of wood for any significant gap.

  34. Steve Panish on said:

    Hi Scott,
    Thanks for the excellent article! I’ll use your store and bookmark your site.

    I have finger-jointed exterior cedar siding, 15 yrs old, that has very fine cracking (not joint failure) where exposed to intense sun. This is central NH, and conditions are quite extreme at this site. The cracks are very fine but latex paint does not bridge them. I have finger-forced siliconized caulk into the cracks, but this is slow and the caulk shrinks, leaving the crack still open, although perhaps impermeable.

    What is the best way to go? I’m inclined to try the Durham’s Water Putty, then prime and repaint. I have not found acrylic fillers to last long in the past, even when primed and painted.

    Thanks in advance.

    • Steve, glad to have you as reader! Water Putty should work well but for extreme conditions I would always go with Abatron Epoxies. Best there is!

  35. frank keirle on said:

    i have drilled half inch holes in my log house to put cpes epoxy in…what is the best way to fill these holes in….i have probably over 100 holes..i would something that i could put in with a cauking gun….then the top half inch do a glue and sawdust mix to finish off

    • Frank, I would thin down the epoxy enough that you can put it in a grout bag and just squeeze enough in to fill the holes. WoodEpox can be thinned with LiquidWood or Acetone to whatever consistency you need to get the job done.

  36. Judy on said:

    What product would you recommend to fill a wood window frame spot about 3″.x 1/2 inch that has softened/rot from moisture. Interior window/single pain south side. (Older home). Then would caulk all around to seal out moisture from sweating & draft.

    • Judy, for exterior wood patching I almost always go with Abatron LiquidWood and WoodEpox because epoxies hold up much better to the brutal conditions outside.

  37. SMRUTI RANJAN UPADHYAY on said:

    I have one sofa set made of wood where in some hair line creaks are visible in its handle/and legs. Would you please suggest some of bonding material which can be put in to it which can go inside and fill the area. Also suggest whether I should apply polish after putting the bonding material

  38. Martin on said:

    My go to woodfiller is bondo. Quick and relatively easy to use once you you get the hang of mixing the proper ratio. I mainly use bondo by 3M and have used others. Minwax works well and claims to be a stuctual filler. I would recommend going with epoxy fillers myself for anything structural. Best to spend a little more for peace of mind. I’ve used bondo for exterior projects with success. It’s used on auto body repairs so you know it holds up to outside elements. As long as it’s primed and painted with decent products it should last as long as the substrate.

    • Martin, the problem with Bondo for exterior wood repairs is that the wood expands and contracts with environmental conditions unlike metal or fiberglass. Bondo is not flexible enough and often it ends being pushed out by the wood and causing more damage. Wood epoxy fillers are softer and more flexible and therefore they can move with the wood giving them lasting power.

  39. Eddie Leibold on said:

    I have an antique heirloom table that an approx 3 inch in diameter by 1/4 inch deep hole got burned into. (long story) What would you suggest be the best way to patch it? I am thinking of using a clear epoxy resin so the wood grain is still visible.

  40. eric on said:

    Iam redoing stairs and to of the boards have knot holes that u can see through each hole is a inch wide maybe a inch and 3/8 how would I fix this without replacing the whole stair and I have to paint the stairs

  41. eric on said:

    How would u fix an see through knot hole on the insert of a stair with our replacing the entire stair

  42. Susan on said:

    I have found a beautiful solid mahogany bookcase (not an antique) that has drill holes (about 4 total) scattered randomly on each side. I am going to paint it rather than try to refinish it, so am hoping you could suggest which of the products you mention above would be the best to use for this. Thanks so much!

    • Try Kwikwood, it sets up fast and dries very hard just like the mahogany.

  43. Greg on said:

    Well, this is timely. I have part of an exterior mahogany sill that is rotted, and will remove it with a router. The rotted part will sit under a piece of trim, and I want to stain the sill with a weather-resistant finish when I’m done. Which filler should I use?

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