Having worked in the restorations trades for more than 20 years I have constantly been on the search for the best wood filler. I have tried countless products that at first seemed like a winner only to find, just like my high school dating experiences, they wouldn’t go the distance.
The conclusion I have come to is that there isn’t just one product, but rather a group of products that can handle any wood patching task I need. The best wood filler is sometimes not a wood filler at all, but a wood epoxy or even a putty. In this post, I’ll give you my take on the best products to patch wood on the market today.
The first thing you need to consider when choosing the best wood filler is what its use will be. Is it outdoors or indoors, painted or varnished, structural or cosmetic? There is a product for any need listed below, and you’ve just got to find the right one from the list below.
You can also read the results of my 5-year field testing of most of these wood fillers and epoxies at The Wood Filler & Epoxy Test (Year 5) to see how these products performed in the real world as well as to watch the video below.
MH Ready Patch
Best for small cosmetic repairs and surface leveling – MH Ready Patch is a great patch for a myriad of little patches. It doesn’t work for structural patches like an epoxy, but it does work quite well for things like nail holes and surface imperfections in painted wood (it’s not stainable). It dries fast, 30-45 mins and it’s ready to sand.
It is an oil-based product, but it cleans up with soap and water, which I love. I use it to fill holes smaller than a dime in size, smooth out alligatoring paint, surface checks, fill surface gouges or almost anything else I may need. Its only weakness is when you try to fill large areas which causes it to sag and shrink. Keep it limited to very small areas and always make sure you paint it because it will not last if left exposed to the elements.
LiquidWood & WoodEpox
Best for structural repairs or rebuilding of big portions of wood – There are tons of different types of epoxies for wood, but this product is by far my favorite because of its ease of use and long performance.
We use this every single day and my rot repair franchise Preservan uses a similar product by the truckload. The two parts work together to stabilize “punky” wood and fill in the missing areas.
The repairs can be sanded, drilled, planed, and essentially you are left with a repair that performs just like wood but will never rot or fall out. Epoxy repairs are some of the strongest, most long-lasting ways to patch wood. They are structural, so they can be used anywhere and are usually not troubled by water issues like other wood fillers.
Got some serious rot? This is the stuff you need. For info on how to use this awesome product, read my tutorial How To Repair Rotted Wood With Abatron Epoxy.
KwikWood
Best for small structural repairs in a hurry – Anyone who occasionally needs to patch wood should have a tube of this sitting in their shop or garage. This is a very simple to use 2-part epoxy that you mix with your hands. It’s kind of like squishing a tootsie roll together to mix both parts. Once you mix it, you have about 10 minutes before it starts to set up, and in 20-30 mins it is hard as a rock.
I use it to fill screw holes that have stripped out so I can get a sagging door hung again quickly or other tasks like that. Its fast drying time and resistance to rot and mildew make it perfect for exterior repairs too. I have used it outdoors and left it unpainted for years (not on purpose) with no problem.
Minwax Wood Filler
Best all-purpose wood filler – You knew I’d get around to an actual wood filler soon, right? Minwax Wood filler is such an easy to use and great product I am constantly surprised by how good it does for how little it costs. In the video above you can see the incredible results I got after a 5 year test with this stuff. It outperformed some epoxies and more expensive products big time.
It’s simple to apply with a finger tip or putty knife, sand when it’s smooth and prime when you’re done. No mixing to screw up. The fact that it’s not structural just means it should not be used for larger applications like the Abatron products above. It’s also a great option for stained and varnished projects as well as paint grade repairs.
Sawdust & Wood Glue
Best for color matching and flooring joints – This is a weird little trick that an old floor refinisher taught me and it really has worked great in very specific circumstances. Here’s how it works:
To patch wood using this method, you’ll need sawdust from the specific wood you are patching. Mix it with enough wood glue to get the consistency you need. You can make this a wet slurry and trowel it into the joints between old floor boards or make a thick paste to fill spots on damaged furniture.
You have to work fast enough that the glue doesn’t begin to dry on you, but to match the color of a repair for something that will be stained and varnished there is nothing better. Once it’s dry, sand the surface thoroughly and you’re good to go.
Austin’s Glazier’s Putty
Best for flexible joint filling – Glazing putty isn’t a wood filler, right? Wrong. For filling nail holes or joints glazing putty is actually incredibly useful.
Some glazing putties are bright white (DAP 33) which can hide well for painted trim, but are hard to see if you’ve gotten good coverage plus they can take weeks to cure. That’s why I created my own glazing putty with the help of the folks at Sarco Putty Co. that is usually ready for painting within just 24 hrs. It is also available in a brown color to blend in better for varnished projects.
For a better option to filling joints and ease of application you can’t beat a glazing putty. I can often use this in place of caulk for certain circumstances where more body is required than caulk which tends to sag.
What to Avoid
You’ll notice that there is one product I specifically did not include here that a lot of people use…Bondo. There is a good reason why it is not included in a post about the best wood filler and I’ve outlined why you should absolutely avoid Bondo when it comes to patching wood in this more in-depth post.
I’d love to hear what your experience has been with these products and if you have other favorites that you’ve found over the years. Are these truly the best products to patch wood or is there some other product that deserves the title of best wood filler.
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I love old houses, working with my hands, and teaching others the excitment of doing it yourself! Everything is teachable if you only give it the chance.
Hi Scott, I was wondering what I could use to fill in an outdoor treated wood deck before I sand and paint it….what happened is my dad tried to get the old paint off with a power washer so I could put new paint on and he got a little too close and splintered it and took chunks out! Can you help me out please?
You can fill it but I doubt that on an exposed horizontal surface the patch will last too long. I would probably replace the severely damaged boards with new lumber. Or you can fill with an epoxy like the WoodEpox and make sure you coat the deck with a opaque stain to hide and protect the patches.
Hi Scott!! Thank you for your wonderful suggestions!
I have to hide the holes from the screws I drilled to hang my plasma TV on the nice woodwork panel (white color) above the fireplace. Very clean holes, about 3mm in diameter, six of them.
I guess a touch of white paint to finish up after whatever you suggest?
Phillip, try the MH ReadyPatch. It might take two coats but it dries quickly. Make sure to prime the patch before you touch up the paint.
Awesome tips.
Just wondering what you think is the best way to fill some melamine finished chipboard cupboard screw holes.
We can’t sand the surface once it’s filled, so is there one of these we can wipe clean?
Sonny, most of these products can be smoothed over before they dry with a rag moistened in whichever solvent is recommended by the manufacturer (often water or acetone depending on the formula). If you plan to install screws again try the KwikWood or Abatron products for good holding strength.
Hi Scott,
We have old hardwood flooring in our bedrooms that is in fair condition but not good enough condition to “restore” them. I would like to find a product that I can use to fill cracks and splintered areas and make them “last” a little longer until we can afford to lay new flooring over them. I saw a comercial for a new Behr Deckover product for exterior decking and wondered if it can be used indoors for what I am looking to do?
Dear Scott,
I have just purchased an old butcher’s block. I plan to use it as an island in my kitchen. There are a few areas that had some wood rot. I want to fill it with something that will not need to be painted or stained but can be sanded. Preferably something clear? What would you recommend?
Thanks!
Jessica, for a butcher block you’re better off doing a Dutchman repair than using wood filler or epoxy. Cut a piece of wood that matches the damaged section, then glue it in place an clamp it.
about to refinish approximately 800 square feet of oak flooring. I have seen someone use a thinned out wood putty poured onto the floor and spread with a trowel to fill joints, nail holes etc. Any idea what this product is?
Thank you very much
Bob
Bob, here’s a little trade secret. The national wood flooring association recommends filling joints in wood floors with premixed joint compound that is tinted to the color of the wood. It bonds well, fills great and is easily sanded. Get some tints from you local paint store and mix the colors yourself to come as close as you can to the wood color.
I have wood siding. Where to boards meet the putty they installed is starting to crack. What is the best way to fill this gap. Re-putty or use one of the methods above.
For patching siding I would stick with an epoxy like Kwikwood if it’s a small patch or Abatron WoodEpox for larger repairs. They hold up much better in the extreme conditions that siding is put through all year.
Hi Scott,
Repair is needed to fill in a 2″-3″ diameter hole in a stained maple wood cabinet. What product would be best for this repair?
Thank you,
Sylvia
Hello… I found the article of great interest… Question … How well do these wood repair products stand up to expansion and contraction from heat and cold?
I live in northern most Michigan… The temps get down to -20’s in the winter and 80’s in the summer… Will the repairs with these products pop out or crack the wood in the very cold or over expand the wood during a hot summer?
Thanx!
Jeff
Jeff, if properly primed and painted most of these fillers will perform well with the extreme weather changes. The absolute best for staying bonded to the wood is the Abatron products though. When used with LiquidWood, WoodEpox really holds tenaciously to the surface it’s applied to.
Hi Scott,
What should I use to fill a few drilled holes in a cedar 4 X 4 deck post. (Kwikwood?) The post will be stained after the holes are filled. Also, the post rotted where to two top rails meet in the corner allowing water to drip into the post. Any ideas to fill in the space where the top rails form the corner?
Thanks
Angela
Angela I would use either Kwikwood or WoodEpox for those repairs.
Scott,
I have a cabinet door with a previously drilled hole for concealed hinges but the holes for the mounting screws are to big. Could I used one of these techniques to fill the holes, then re-drill and fasten the hinges in whatever filler I use. I should mention I drilled the holes and put hinges at the top and bottom of the door this previously drilled hole is in the middle. Thanks for any insight you can offer,
Joe
I’d try Kwikwood Joe. Easy solution for something like this and plenty strong to hold the new screws .
Thanks so much Scott! I can’t wait to try it out!
Scott, thanks for your helpful site. I have an old splintering deck and picnic table, both previously stained over 5 years ago. I would like to fill, sand and waterproof the wood. Both are made of treated lumber and are 10-20 years old.
What do you suggest to smooth and protect from further damage of water And sun?
Thanks,
Kathy
Kathy, WoodEpox is the way to go for exterior wood filling if you don’t plan to paint.
Rather than fill all those deck boards, I suggest using one of the new thick topcoat “paint” products that you apply with a roller that basically puts a thick but even new surface on splintering old decks. Much easier than filling the boards and once it’s done it’s over. They come in various shades of tan and brown.
Hi Scott,
I’m working on my log cabin and wanted to know what you suggest on filling in cracks/splits in the outside logs. I guess it’s due to nails splitting the wood. I’m going to fill in a lot of them so I’m going to need a large amount. I have been using Sikkens on the logs, so I’m looking for a stainable product. I saw at Lowe’s Durham’s water putty, Minwax stainable wood filler, and Elmer’s Probond wood filler. I wasn’t sure which one would be best or if one of the other six products you mention are better, if so, where should I look to buy them? Also, I do have some rot in some of the logs which I look to clean out and fill in, which product do you recommend? Will the products help prevent further splitting?
Based on your guide, which is helpful, I should sand and clean the areas before applying the product then lastly I can stain. Any help or guidance is much appreciated.
Thank you in advance!
Bill
Bill, exterior wood filling and patching requires some special products especially if you aren’t planning to prime and paint the surfaces. If you were painting I would recommend Durham’s Water Putty but since you are just using a stain try some WoodEpox. It is stainable but only if it’s sanded after it cures. I’d do a couple tests to see if you can get the right color before applying it to the logs. The WoodEpox (along with LiquidWood) works great for rotted wood repairs too. The most cost effective place to get them is at Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084PQJ12/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0084PQJ12&linkCode=as2&tag=thecrablo09-20
We’re trying to use an old redwood plank as a countertop, but the epoxy that was used previously to repair the wood is delaminating. There are a few fist-sized knotholes about 1″ deep. We don’t want to paint, so ideally whatever we use comes in colors or can be stained to match the wood. What would you recommend?
I haven’t worked with redwood much being down in the southeast, but delaminating epoxy is no good. I would try the Abatron products making sure to use the LiquidWood first to essentially glue the WoodEpox into the repair. It’s also stainable as long as you sand the epoxy once dry. Just try pulling that stuff out once it’s cured!
Scott, we’re taking carpet up off of an engineered wood surface. we’ll need to patch the nail holes left by the tack strips. can you use the same products on engineered wood? which product would you recommend? thanks for your help!
Whitney, I would use colored wood filler that matches the color of your floors as closely as possible.
hi scott! i’m working on a fireplace which has big grooves cut out by a router. we’re wanting to smooth the surface to create a modern look. i noticed in an earlier comment on the kitchen cabinets you advised bondo and didn’t know if you’d recommend the same for this situation or one of the other products in the article. it’s also a painted surface and i’ve started sanding it down to the bare wood. obviously this is more of a challenge in the grooves and i was wondering if it’s critical to get ALL the paint off or just “weather” it. thanks so much for your help!
Leslie, just about any wood filler or patching compound performs best when it is used on bare wood vs. a painted surface. Your situation is tough because the area around a working fireplace will have extreme temperature swings so you’d be best suited with an epoxy filler like WoodEpox. Use that in conjunction with LiquidWood and sand down to bare wood as much as you can in the grooves. Check out this post on how to strip the paint from the grooves: https://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-strip-paint-part-1-chemical-strippers/
Scott, I’m buying a table that has a damaged leaf, and I want to repair that damage as easily and invisibly as possible. You make all seven products sound easy and effective, but I’m leaning toward the $5 Elmer’s Wood Filler for this, unless you think Kwikwood’s a better way to go.
Since the damage is on an edge your options are a bit more limited. Kwikwood might work, but if it were me I would use a restoration epoxy called WoodEpox made by Abatron. It will cling onto the edge tenaciously and not chip off like ordinary wood filler which works best to fill a hole mostly. Once you’ve patched it you’ll need to sand, stain and finish it. Good luck!
Scott, I need to fill some holes in a antique convertible top bow. The bow is where they tack the canvas top to. The bow is structurally sound, but one side is peppered with holes. My question is, is there a filler that when I’m done it will hold tacks again and not just crack and fall out?
Thank you in advance
Marv
Marv, try an epoxy like the WoodEpox and LiquidWood combination by Abatron. Kwikwood would likely do the trick as well. Sand it smooth when you’re done and both of these will hold nails well if you fill the holes completely.
Thank you Scott. I was hoping you had some suggestions. A replacement bow is $400 and I would much rather spend that else wear.
Hi, I found this site by google search and I was wondering if I can repair wood railings that are splintering with KwikWood? I need to put a layer of something down and sand and paint. Thanks for your help.
Linda, welcome to The Craftsman! Kwikwood works best to fill gouges in the wood surface. Depending on what kind of splintering exactly you may need something different. It may also just need a good sanding and refinishing. Send a picture if you can and I might be able to help you a bit more.
Scott, I found your blog article interesting, however still many options. I am looking to fill plywood kitchen cabinet door fronts that were routed with a design box type line on the front thirty years ago , but we want to make flat and paint to bring up to more current designs. Considering a thin laminent sheet or fill sand and paint. Do you think one of the fillers that you mentioned would work well for the fill sand and paint approach?
Thank you for your thoughts!
Kent
Kent, when we build cabinets we typically use Bondo to fill and sand holes. As long as it won’t be exposed to the elements.