Tung Oil vs Linseed Oil: The Ultimate Face-Off

When it comes to restoring historic woodwork, you don’t mess around with just any products. You need the best. That’s where Tung Oil and Linseed Oil come in. These oils have been around for centuries, protecting and reviving wood in ways modern finishes just can’t match.

If you’re wondering which one is the best for your next historic restoration project, you’re in the right place. We’re about to break down everything you need to know, from chemical compositions to which oil might stand up better against mildew (because nobody wants that).

What’s the Difference?

Tung Oil comes from the seeds of the tung tree, primarily native to China. It’s a drying oil, meaning it reacts with oxygen in the air to harden over time. The chemical structure of Tung Oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids, which polymerize (fancy word for “harden”) to create a tough, flexible layer over the wood.

On the flip side, Linseed Oil is derived from the seeds of the flax plant. Also a drying oil, its molecular structure is based on alpha-linolenic acid, which, like Tung Oil, polymerizes as it oxidizes. However, Linseed Oil takes longer to dry and tends to stay softer than Tung Oil, which can make a difference in certain applications.

Beware of Imposters

Now that you’ve got the lowdown on these oils, here’s a pro tip: watch out for fakes. A lot of products labeled as “Tung Oil” or “Linseed Oil” are basically imposters. Some of them only have a measly 10% of the real oil in the bottle—the rest? Just a cocktail of harsh chemicals and fillers. So, read those labels like your project depends on it (because it does). Buyer beware!

One of the biggest offenders is WATCO Tung Oil. Here’s the list of chemicals in their Tung Oil cocktail:

A Brief History of Drying Oils

Tung Oil dates back to ancient China (about 400–500 AD), where it was a superstar for waterproofing wooden boats and protecting carvings. By the 14th century, it was an integral part of Chinese lacquerware. Fast forward to today, and Tung Oil remains a go-to for fine furniture and historic restoration, especially because it ages so beautifully, just like Tom Cruise!

Linseed Oil has an even longer history, with records showing it was used as early as 2000 BC in Egypt, mostly as a binder in paints. It rose to fame in the Middle Ages across Europe, where it was used to protect wood and stone surfaces. By the time the Renaissance rolled around, artists were mixing Linseed Oil into their paints to create those timeless masterpieces we now see hanging in museums. Today, Linseed Oil is still a favorite for wood finishing, from fine art restoration to preserving historic buildings.

Strengths and Weaknesses: Which Oil Reigns Supreme?

What do you say we pit these two heavyweights of restoration head-to-head to see who comes out ahead? Here’s a comparison detailing strengths and weaknesses so you can understand each oil a little better.

Best Practices for Using Drying Oils

When using Tung Oil, remember that less is more. You’ll want to apply thin layers, letting each one dry before adding the next. Usually, 3-5 coats are enough to protect the wood while still keeping it breathable.

Linseed Oil is more forgiving, but because it stays soft, you need to be mindful about where you use it. It’s excellent for interior woodwork—think window frames and furniture—but not great for areas that get a lot of moisture. If you’re working on an exterior project, consider sticking with Tung Oil because of it’s natural mold and mildew resistance. For best results, mix it with turpentine or mineral spirits for better penetration and faster drying.

Combining Oils with Other Products: The Perfect Finish

One of the best ways to boost the performance of both Tung and Linseed Oil is by mixing them with other finishes or protectants:

• Wax: Applying a final coat of wax over either oil will enhance its durability. The wax provides an extra layer of protection against moisture and adds a subtle sheen that looks great on historic woodwork.
• Paint: Linseed Oil has been traditionally used as a binder in oil paints, but you can mix it into other finishes as well for added flexibility. Tung Oil can also be layered under oil-based paint or primer, providing a strong waterproof base that keeps wood protected.
• Other Finishes: For a more durable finish, consider using Tung Oil with shellac or varnish. The oil penetrates the wood, while the shellac or varnish provides a harder outer layer. This combo is great for high-traffic areas or surfaces exposed to water, like windowsills and doors.

I’ve create a homemade brew of linseed oil, polyurethane, and turpentine that performs well that I’ve documented in this post that anyone can make.

If you’re looking for a good all-around natural finish for interior and exterior woodwork you should consider using Austin’s WoodButter. This is a product that I used for years on my own projects until some friend finally convinced me to bottle it and make it available to other’s in the restoration trades.

WoodButter is a mixture of raw Tung Oil, waxes, and essential oils to further protect against mildew and mold. It’s possibly the simplest and safest (completely non-toxic) finish you can find out there. From cutting boards to doors to table tops the mix of oils and waxes give beautiful protection. Soeaking of mold and mildew let’s dig into that next!

Mildew, Mold, and Moisture: Which Oil Holds Up Better?

One of the major concerns with oil finishes is their susceptibility to mildew, especially in humid environments. When we say humid climates that doesn’t just mean Miami, FL in the summer. That includes the majority of the southern and coastal US.

So, are either of these oils safe for the climates where most Americans live? Yes, Tung Oil comes out ahead here. Its natural properties resist mold and mildew, making it a better choice for exterior restoration projects or wood in high-moisture areas.

Linseed Oil, unfortunately, tends to attract mildew like Taylor Swift attracts the wrong guy, unless you add a mildew inhibitor (to Linseed Oil that is. We have no idea what a mildew inhibitor would do to Taylor). It’s also more prone to yellowing over time, especially in darker or damper settings, which can detract from the appearance of your restored woodwork.

What About Boiled or Polymerized Versions?

There are faster-drying versions of both Tung Oil and Linseed Oil out there, and they’re kind of like oil on steroids. Enter Boiled Linseed Oil and Polymerized Tung Oil. Basically, they’re either heated up or juiced with drying additives to cut down your wait time.

Polymerized Tung Oil is thicker than the raw stuff, and you’ll be sitting pretty in 18-24 hours instead of twiddling your thumbs for a whole week. The downside? It’s so thick, it barely sinks into the wood like raw Tung Oil does, which kind of defeats the point, right? Check out Sutherland Welles if you want to go deep on polymerized Tung Oil products.

No sweat—there’s a workaround: just thin it out with a solvent like mineral spirits, turpentine, or even citrus solvent to get that penetration everyone wants for lasting protection and a beautiful finish.

Boiled Linseed Oil? Same deal. Instead of heating it, they just toss in some driers (hello, Japan Drier) to get that drying time down from a week to 18-24 hours. Sure, it’s not the purest stuff, but hey, it’s faster.

That said, we’re old-school here. We say the slow road is the way to go. Good things come to those who wait, right? What do you think—team quick and easy or all-in on tradition?

So, Which One Should You Use?

• For exterior wood, like historic windows, doors and that special Adirondack chair, go for Tung Oil. It’s tougher, more water-resistant, and naturally defends against mildew.
• For interior projects, especially those where you want the flexibility to layer with paints or waxes, Linseed Oil is your go-to. Just be prepared for a slower drying process.

In the end, both Tung Oil and Linseed Oil have stood the test of time for good reasons. Your choice comes down to the specifics of your project: budget, environmental exposure, and how patient you are with drying times. Whichever oil you choose, you’re guaranteed a finish that’s not only beautiful but also historically accurate.