I’ve discussed how to re-rope double-hung windows in a previous post, but folks are always looking for more ideas on how to make roping easier. So, here are four simple hacks I’ve developed to make re-roping windows a whole lot easier.
Click here for more help on restoring your old windows, and if you need some top notch sash rope, you can always buy some right here.
Hack #1 The Piggyback
If you’ve still got a rope poking through the pulley, then you can cut the knot off and tape the new rope to the end of the old rope. That way, when you pull the weight out of the pocket, it will easily draw the new rope down the pulley and out the pocket door. Then, you just cut the old rope off the weight, tie the new rope on, and cut it to length. Voila!
Hack #2 The Quick Draw
Don’t break out your tape measure- just run a length of rope from the top of the jamb to the sill and cut. That length should be more than enough to tie your weight off and leave some excess for the sash knot.
This trick only works on normal height windows. Any window shorter than about 40 inches may need 2-4 additional inches added to the length of the rope.
Hack #3 The Sinker
When the rope just won’t go down the pocket and keeps getting hung up on something, you can tape a screw to the end before threading it down the pulley. The extra weight encourages it to fall down where it belongs. A little shaking and dancing (of the rope, not your booty) helps the job go easier too.
Hack #4 The Nuclear Option
If you just cannot get the rope to go where it needs and you’ve tried everything, it may be time for the nuclear option. Cut the paint line at the interior casing and gently pry it off, being careful not the damage the plaster.
Once it’s off, you’ll have full access to the whole weight pocket and you can fix whatever is causing the rope to get stuck. Sometimes it’s trim nails in the wrong place that can be cut off, other times, it’s poorly placed framing. Whatever it is, fix it now and test before putting the casing back on.
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I tie a piece of fishing line around the end of the rope and then put a series of small sinkers (weights for fishing) to the other end of the line. I have found that just one small sinker isn’t enough to pull the rope down, and large sinkers are too big to fit in the gap above the pulley. Hence, the string of small sinkers.
I prefer to tie the fishing line AROUND the end of the rope instead using a safety pin to connect the two. Once I had a safety pin get caught in the pulley and had a terrible time getting it out.
if you don’t have room for a weight to go through the pulley area to bring your cord down, get your sash cord wet, it becomes heavy enough to go through…my dad’s a genius!!
What if you are missing the weights for the windows?
Joanna, there are a few sources like Architectural Resource Center where you can get replacement weights.
why do smaller window need longer rope–seems counterintuitive?
It’s due to the proportions of the sash and placement of the rope hole mortise on the side of the sash. The rope attached lower on short sashes.
Hi Scott, how about your expert advise on tying the perfect knot for sash cord? Two knots actually, one for attaching the weight, and the other for inserting into the side of the sash? I’ve seen some restorers actually screw the cord into the side of the sash for extra insurance?
Adam, I tie a simple knot to insert into the side of the sash and then secure with a finish nail. To attach the weight I tie a figure-eight knot or a bow knot.
Use a safety pin to pin a piece of sash CHAIN to the end of the rope and feed over the top of the pulley. The weight of the chain is usually enough to pull the rope down. Prying off the front interior casing may not help – I have seen plenty where the interior casing is OVER the plaster and lath.