<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: How To: Reglaze Your Old Windows {Video Tutorial}</title>
	<atom:link href="http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/</link>
	<description>Old House Repair, Advice &#38; Ideas</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 18:36:50 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.5.1</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: Charles</title>
		<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/#comment-2944</link>
		<dc:creator>Charles</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2013 16:22:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thecraftsmanblog.com/?p=1386#comment-2944</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Great details about reglazing, but you don&#039;t really write or talk about how to get the glazing off without breaking the glass. The infrared paint removers use low heat and soften the glazing so you don&#039;t have to hack at it with a regular chisel. I didn&#039;t like the Silent Paint Remover. I had quality problems with it after my first year. Check for other infrared paint removers and find the one that is UL-certified for quality. Some are more expensive but worth it for better durability]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great details about reglazing, but you don&#8217;t really write or talk about how to get the glazing off without breaking the glass. The infrared paint removers use low heat and soften the glazing so you don&#8217;t have to hack at it with a regular chisel. I didn&#8217;t like the Silent Paint Remover. I had quality problems with it after my first year. Check for other infrared paint removers and find the one that is UL-certified for quality. Some are more expensive but worth it for better durability</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: How To: Replace Broken Window Glass &#124; The Craftsman Blog</title>
		<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/#comment-2375</link>
		<dc:creator>How To: Replace Broken Window Glass &#124; The Craftsman Blog</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 10:03:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thecraftsmanblog.com/?p=1386#comment-2375</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[[...] wood windows (typically pre-1950s) were almost always putty glazed (You can watch our video on how to putty glaze windows here). Most window contractors today don&#8217;t know how to putty glaze and when confronted with a [...]]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] wood windows (typically pre-1950s) were almost always putty glazed (You can watch our video on how to putty glaze windows here). Most window contractors today don&#8217;t know how to putty glaze and when confronted with a [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Scott Sidler</title>
		<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/#comment-280</link>
		<dc:creator>Scott Sidler</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Jan 2013 13:25:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thecraftsmanblog.com/?p=1386#comment-280</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Sarco recommends NOT priming their putty. It&#039;s hard for me to feel comfortable doing that, but sticking with manufacturer&#039;s recommendations is almost always the safest route.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sarco recommends NOT priming their putty. It&#8217;s hard for me to feel comfortable doing that, but sticking with manufacturer&#8217;s recommendations is almost always the safest route.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Scott Sidler</title>
		<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/#comment-279</link>
		<dc:creator>Scott Sidler</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Jan 2013 13:24:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thecraftsmanblog.com/?p=1386#comment-279</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dave, thanks for all the comments! It sounds like we do about the same thing with our windows.

I tried the DAP 33 at first and liked it too the main reason I switched for a couple reasons.

1) When restoring old windows I would come across some that were redone only a decade or two ago with DAP. The DAP was chalky and crumbling. I didn&#039;t like its lack of flexibility after such a short period.

2) Several other window restoration companies I know where using Sarco or similar products and they didn&#039;t like DAP. I figured if it&#039;s what the pros are doing then I should look into it.

3) Sarco&#039;s putty is the closest in formulation to what they used back in the day and that putty lasted 70 years in some cases. I want those results.

4) We do use the larger glazier&#039;s points occasionally if the rabbet is big enough and, like you said, if the glass is a bit too small for the frame.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dave, thanks for all the comments! It sounds like we do about the same thing with our windows.</p>
<p>I tried the DAP 33 at first and liked it too the main reason I switched for a couple reasons.</p>
<p>1) When restoring old windows I would come across some that were redone only a decade or two ago with DAP. The DAP was chalky and crumbling. I didn&#8217;t like its lack of flexibility after such a short period.</p>
<p>2) Several other window restoration companies I know where using Sarco or similar products and they didn&#8217;t like DAP. I figured if it&#8217;s what the pros are doing then I should look into it.</p>
<p>3) Sarco&#8217;s putty is the closest in formulation to what they used back in the day and that putty lasted 70 years in some cases. I want those results.</p>
<p>4) We do use the larger glazier&#8217;s points occasionally if the rabbet is big enough and, like you said, if the glass is a bit too small for the frame.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: davefoc</title>
		<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/#comment-278</link>
		<dc:creator>davefoc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Jan 2013 07:45:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thecraftsmanblog.com/?p=1386#comment-278</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Just poking around the site a little bit more I stumbled on the tip about using plaster instead of whiting. That sounds like a great idea. I have to make a special trip to get whiting but I always have plaster lying around and it is much cheaper as you said.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just poking around the site a little bit more I stumbled on the tip about using plaster instead of whiting. That sounds like a great idea. I have to make a special trip to get whiting but I always have plaster lying around and it is much cheaper as you said.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: davefoc</title>
		<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/#comment-277</link>
		<dc:creator>davefoc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Jan 2013 07:35:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thecraftsmanblog.com/?p=1386#comment-277</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I just noticed another difference between the way I have been doing it and the way Scott recommends. For a long time I was just painting glazing compound with two coats of a quality exterior latex paint. I never noticed a problem, but I changed awhile ago to priming the putty with an oil based primer before I painted it. I changed after I noticed that priming was recommended by the Dap 33 instructions. Maybe not needing to be primed is an advantage of the Sarco Putty?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just noticed another difference between the way I have been doing it and the way Scott recommends. For a long time I was just painting glazing compound with two coats of a quality exterior latex paint. I never noticed a problem, but I changed awhile ago to priming the putty with an oil based primer before I painted it. I changed after I noticed that priming was recommended by the Dap 33 instructions. Maybe not needing to be primed is an advantage of the Sarco Putty?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: davefoc</title>
		<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/#comment-276</link>
		<dc:creator>davefoc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Jan 2013 07:26:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thecraftsmanblog.com/?p=1386#comment-276</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I am sure I have much less experience than Scott does, but I have repaired and reglazed more than 100 windows and through trial an error have mostly come to do it about the way Scott does. The differences:

1. I use Dap 33. I just started out using this because this is what the home centers carry. I&#039;ve never used anything else and maybe what Scott recommends is better. It sounds like Dap 33 requires a little less set up time than the Sarco putty which is a good thing from my point of view but beyond that I don&#039;t know why one product versus the other.

2. I use Dap glazing compound in a tube for the bedding. I use this instead of Dap 33 because it goes down faster and is easier to squash flat when you install the glass. I don&#039;t think it works very well for the window glazing itself because it sags and in general just looks kind of ugly in time.

3. I use a two handed technique with the putty knife. I use one hand to hold the knife steady against the frame and a second to drag the putty knife along.

4. I use the points with the bent up edge. Sometimes they are just barely covered by the glazing compound, but at least on occasion somebody as cut the old glass a little on the small side and if they were any smaller I&#039;d need to get new glass.

5. I&#039;ve been making the glazing compound bevel end as close as possible to the edge of the inside rabbet. I think I&#039;m going to go with Scott on this. I&#039;m going to start making the bevel a little more narrow.

6. I clean up the oil from the glazing compound on the window with whiting. This allows me to make the window mostly clean while I wait for the glazing compound to set up so the window can be painted and cleaned. Maybe the Sarco Putty is less messy to install than the Dap 33 and doesn&#039;t leave the window with oily smears the way Dap 33 does?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am sure I have much less experience than Scott does, but I have repaired and reglazed more than 100 windows and through trial an error have mostly come to do it about the way Scott does. The differences:</p>
<p>1. I use Dap 33. I just started out using this because this is what the home centers carry. I&#8217;ve never used anything else and maybe what Scott recommends is better. It sounds like Dap 33 requires a little less set up time than the Sarco putty which is a good thing from my point of view but beyond that I don&#8217;t know why one product versus the other.</p>
<p>2. I use Dap glazing compound in a tube for the bedding. I use this instead of Dap 33 because it goes down faster and is easier to squash flat when you install the glass. I don&#8217;t think it works very well for the window glazing itself because it sags and in general just looks kind of ugly in time.</p>
<p>3. I use a two handed technique with the putty knife. I use one hand to hold the knife steady against the frame and a second to drag the putty knife along.</p>
<p>4. I use the points with the bent up edge. Sometimes they are just barely covered by the glazing compound, but at least on occasion somebody as cut the old glass a little on the small side and if they were any smaller I&#8217;d need to get new glass.</p>
<p>5. I&#8217;ve been making the glazing compound bevel end as close as possible to the edge of the inside rabbet. I think I&#8217;m going to go with Scott on this. I&#8217;m going to start making the bevel a little more narrow.</p>
<p>6. I clean up the oil from the glazing compound on the window with whiting. This allows me to make the window mostly clean while I wait for the glazing compound to set up so the window can be painted and cleaned. Maybe the Sarco Putty is less messy to install than the Dap 33 and doesn&#8217;t leave the window with oily smears the way Dap 33 does?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: How To Paint The Exterior Of Your Home</title>
		<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/#comment-275</link>
		<dc:creator>How To Paint The Exterior Of Your Home</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Jan 2013 12:00:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thecraftsmanblog.com/?p=1386#comment-275</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[[...] won&#039;t reveal peeling or other problems, but it will give visual evidence to make selection easier.Learn how to paint the exterior of your home in no time.All it takes is a little hard work paint. You could paint the outside of your house with paint designated &#039;Interior Paint&#039;. But most [...]]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] won&#039;t reveal peeling or other problems, but it will give visual evidence to make selection easier.Learn how to paint the exterior of your home in no time.All it takes is a little hard work paint. You could paint the outside of your house with paint designated &#039;Interior Paint&#039;. But most [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Scott Sidler</title>
		<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/#comment-274</link>
		<dc:creator>Scott Sidler</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 Oct 2012 20:31:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thecraftsmanblog.com/?p=1386#comment-274</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Jack, that is a good tip, thanks for sharing it. Yeah, I don&#039;t mind breaking a couple small panes but when you break 30&quot; or 40&quot; window it kills me. 

We&#039;re building our own steam cabinet now and looking forward to trying it out because stubborn putty is the easiest way to break windows.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jack, that is a good tip, thanks for sharing it. Yeah, I don&#8217;t mind breaking a couple small panes but when you break 30&#8243; or 40&#8243; window it kills me. </p>
<p>We&#8217;re building our own steam cabinet now and looking forward to trying it out because stubborn putty is the easiest way to break windows.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jack Barnes</title>
		<link>http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/#comment-273</link>
		<dc:creator>Jack Barnes</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 Oct 2012 19:19:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thecraftsmanblog.com/?p=1386#comment-273</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Those are good tips. I&#039;ve found it is sometimes tricky to remove the old putty, especially on larger panes of glass. My glass supplier shared a great tip: Don&#039;t try to remove old putty in sun or in hot temperatures, but instead do the work in shade and early or late in the day. The old glass is more likely to break in the hot sun. Obviously if you remove the old sash then you can work indoors, but for a picture window sometimes you don&#039;t have that option. It can be heartbreaking to crack a large pane of wavy glass!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Those are good tips. I&#8217;ve found it is sometimes tricky to remove the old putty, especially on larger panes of glass. My glass supplier shared a great tip: Don&#8217;t try to remove old putty in sun or in hot temperatures, but instead do the work in shade and early or late in the day. The old glass is more likely to break in the hot sun. Obviously if you remove the old sash then you can work indoors, but for a picture window sometimes you don&#8217;t have that option. It can be heartbreaking to crack a large pane of wavy glass!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

<!-- Performance optimized by W3 Total Cache. Learn more: http://www.w3-edge.com/wordpress-plugins/

Page Caching using disk: enhanced
Database Caching 1/6 queries in 0.005 seconds using disk
Object Caching 433/433 objects using disk

 Served from: thecraftsmanblog.com @ 2013-05-25 15:34:07 by W3 Total Cache -->